Zinc Café settles into Los Angeles Arts District

The Arts District is developing a reputation for taking the hardnosed rustic overtones of the surrounding industrial complexes and subtly ushering in high-end restaurants and shops. Take, for instance, the Biscuit Company Lofts and venerated French bistro Church and State situated at the center of a host of warehouse buildings. Bestia, which serves up some of the city’s best cured meats and charcuterie selections, sits a block away from a recycling plant.

Excellent food doesn’t necessarily mean the prettiest location, so for a café and market like the newly opened Zinc Café to transfer a concept from the picturesque shores of Laguna Beach and Corona Del Mar, California to the brick-and-concrete jungles of Los Angeles’ industrial underbelly, it would have to have well-executed food to compensate. Luckily, Zinc Café has exactly the type of solid execution in everyday fare to become a staple for Arts District locals.

The first impression upon walking into Zinc Café is that it’s spacious — ample al fresco seating lines the pathway to the entrance, with another charming patio with trees and even more outdoor seating. Natural light spills in from attractive, floor-to-ceiling windows and illuminates whitewashed wooden booths smartly contrasted with stainless steel tables.  The café’s aesthetic operates more as a gorgeous respite from its heavily industrialized surroundings.

The food doesn’t quite live up to Zinc Café’s amazing made-for-brunch ambiance, but this is an admittedly tall order — the offerings are plenty serviceable. A Belgian waffle arrives lightly dusted with powdered sugar, topped with seasonal berries and a citrus-adulterated whipped cream. The waffle errs on the cakey side, without a crunchy shell to offer a contrastive texture balance. It’s fluffy and soft throughout and eats more like a dessert than a staple of a late-morning brunch menu.

On the savory side, an omelette of asparagus and mushrooms is buttery without being too hefty or greasy. The oyster and shiitake mushrooms play a starring role, adding an earthy and savory element that’s counterbalanced by the tang of freshly melted goat cheese. The execution on the egg is a bit sloppy, with the ingredients peeking out through various perforations on the underside of the omelette, indicative of a bit of rushed execution. It’s a minor oversight in an altogether satisfying dish that’s served up with wheat toast and fresh berries.

Another satisfying savory option is the Spanish egg casserole, which comes served in a small bowl topped with a perfectly cooked egg. A hint of spice and nice sweetness from the chopped peppers is given a rich boost when mixed with the yolk of the egg. Any subtlety of flavors attempted is drowned out by the casserole itself, which strongly resembles an American chili casserole. Again, the execution is a little off the mark; one baton of a julienned pepper stretched out to almost an inch and an eighth in length, while others were uniformly chopped to much smaller, bite-sized pieces. This casserole is served with white toast points and tasty enough that the portion may seem a little too small.

In spite of the rushed execution on some of the savory dishes, it bears mentioning that the food itself has the flavor profiles and the balance to win over most diners. The strong, earthy house coffee is pairs brilliantly with any of Zinc’s breakfast offerings and could go toe to toe with any Joe in the neighborhood— which is nothing to sneeze at, given that the area that boasts both Stumptown Coffee Roasters and a Handsome Coffee (soon to be Blue Bottle Coffee) location within walking distance.

With its gorgeous expansive décor, solidly executed food and a cocktail and beverage list worthy of any upscale brunch haunt in Newport Beach, Zinc Café should be a welcome addition to the Arts District dining scene.