Saint Martha cooks up eclectic menu
Excellent culinary experiences are considered a rare treat for most college students whose daily menus usually don’t stray far from ramen and Easy Mac. Those looking to start exploring the vast and varied culinary topography of Los Angeles won’t have to go very far, however. Saint Martha, a cozy new bistro devoted to wine and offering an eclectic international menu opened its doors in a strip mall in Koreatown this past June.
Culinary delight · Saint Martha specializes in meat and seafood dishes. Highlights include the mouthwatering steak and oyster tartare with champagne sabayon as well as bone marrow beignets. – Photo courtesy of Saint Martha
Founded by established Los Angeles restaurateurs Peter and Ellen Picataggio — the couple behind Angeleno favorite TART — and helmed by self-proclaimed hipster chef Nick Erven, Saint Martha offers exquisite small plates and an extensively curated wine list in a room that feels like home.
Located in a quiet strip mall on 740 S. Western Ave., patrons can expect to drive right by Saint Martha, maybe twice, before seeing the restaurant’s simple sign and large wooden doors. Inside, the décor is sparse but trendy, with vintage portraits hanging on the walls and a cozy maroon leather bench lining the interior. Patrons can quickly pick up on the nods Saint Martha is giving to the hip Los Angeles culture that led to its creation.
Walking in, customers are greeted by a smile from the chefs working under a neon blue sign reading “Hipster” and an eager hostess asking for a reservation name. The staff at Saint Martha is both attentive and knowledgeable. With precise information on how the food is prepared and great recommendations on the most complementary flavors on the menu, the staff play an important role in the dining and drinking experience.
After ordering, customers are treated to hors d’oeuvres, compliments of the chef. While the specifics will differ depending on the evening, a creative, refreshing and tasty little morsel featuring seasonal produce and a light protein can be expected.
Grand Master Sommelier Mary Thompson has developed an eclectic wine menu featuring over 50 bottles from all over the world, making the bar predominantly wine oriented. Customers have the option to taste, order a carafe or buy a bottle for varying prices.
The menu at Saint Martha is divided into five different sections, not including sweets. The first section, “Snacks,” ranges from $8 to $12 and features one of the stars of the menu: the octopus with koshihikari rice, sauce nero, lardo and espelette. The octopus is tender, flavorful and not at all fishy, it is not intimidating for even the most inexperienced diner, and paired with a creamy risotto style rice this is a must at $12.
Following “Snacks,” Erven created a section of the menu devoted to raw foods aptly titled “Rawesome.” Ranging from $12 to $15, these dishes offer delicious raw appetizers at approachable prices. The steak and oyster tartare with champagne sabayon and bone marrow beignets might be the best thing on the menu. At $13, patrons are given a sizable portion of tartare along with two bone marrow beignets. Refreshingly rich, the two components paired together beautifully. The flavors and textures work together so well that customers at surrounding tables could be heard exclaiming how good the dish was.
If customers are looking for some basic flavors or just a little salad, “Vegetables and Grains” are available from $11 to $13. Saint Martha is certainly not a restaurant for vegetarians, however, as even its veggie dishes usually offer a small seafood or meat protein.
Entrées change daily and are divided into “Fish and Such” and “Meaty Things,” ranging from about $19 to $24. Depending on how hungry the table is, these slightly bigger portions are barely enough to share.
The $23 Hawaiian Snapper with heirloom tomato tartare, pickled eggplant and popcorn purée wowed the entire table. Tender and tasty the fish was the perfect summer choice, paired with sweet fresh tomatoes and a tart pickled eggplant for a refreshing and light dish,
Unfortunately, desserts are not Saint Martha’s forte. A disappointing carrot kamut cake with carrot sorbet and a less than stellar peanut butter ganache with a scoop of grape ice cream that tasted like a Flinstones chewable vitamin ended the meal on a sour note.
For a student who’s looking for a hip and new fine dining experience, Saint Martha’s international fresh and eclectic dinner menu does not disappoint. A meal for three including one glass of wine and selections from each section of the menu came out to be $151.38. Though Saint Martha’s might not be the most affordable, it is a great choice for special occasions or for those willing to shell out a few extra shekels to be on the up and up on great new eateries in Los Angeles.