Butchers & Barbers provides old-fashioned style
Hidden in a little hole in the wall on Hollywood Boulevard across the street from McDonald’s blinking golden arches and a questionable storefront selling wigs is a glamorous new restaurant serving the hip Hollywood crowd. Butchers & Barbers’ 1920s Hollywood memorabilia and dim, smoky, lounge-like ambiance aptly balance out the classic American fare.
Gatsby party · Tasty dinner options are complemented by a charming ’20s inspired ambience which extends to the servers, who are dressed in period clothing, at the newly opened restaurant Butchers & Barbers. – Photo courtesy of Butchers and Barbers
Founded by established L.A. nightlife experts and brothers Mark and Jonnie Houston, Butchers & Barbers has the same undeniably classy vibe that has made a line outside of their nightlife spots such as Good Times at Davey Wayne’s an inescapable guarantee.
Since signs seem to be out of style, it might be hard for new patrons to find Butchers & Barbers in its inconspicuous shopfront next to some very famous Hollywood stars’ actual Hollywood Stars. The only tipoff they’ll receive is a white valet umbrella, a classic Hollywood sign that something posh is waiting on the other side of the door. Patrons who do not want to pay the $8 for valet on weekdays or $10 on weekends, can attempt to find street parking on any of the cross streets.
Upon entering the restaurant, customers are greeted by hostess dressed in 1920s-themed suspenders and asked if they have made a reservation. If customers do decide to call ahead, Butchers & Barbers will seat them immediately. If they try to just drop in, their best bet is the first-come, first-served bar — tables are usually booked from open to close.
Aside from wearing adorable themed costumes, the staff at Butchers & Barbers is helpful, though it is clear that they, along with the kitchen, are still struggling to get their sea legs. Having opened just about three weeks ago, the restaurant runs impressively well, but certain things, such as knowledge of appropriate wine pairings, still need to be worked on.
One look at the classic American menu will leave customers’ mouths watering, but food service is slow, so if anyone is really hungry, it’s a good idea to order drinks and something off of the snack menu first.
Butchers & Barbers feels and acts like a bar. Drinks — all $12 — are incredible, not ridiculously priced and made and served quickly. Cocktails, which have names like Greta Garbo and Lillian Gish, are perfectly balanced and beautifully presented.
The menu at this new Hollywood addition is divided into Snacks, Garden, Sea and Farm. The first section, Snacks, range in price and are nothing to write home about — the popcorn with roasted garlic, rosemary and thyme oil, $4, is great with a cocktail but all together too salty to enjoy by itself.
Following Snacks, head chef Luke Reyes has a gorgeous Garden section featuring locally sourced produce and imaginative serving suggestions. Ranging from $10 to $18, the Garden selection offers delicious appetizers, but the prices are steep. One of the highlights on the menu is the delicata squash with persimmon, fresh burrata and smoked trout roe. For $16, patrons are treated to three pieces of tasty squash perfectly balanced with salty trout roe and rich burrata.
Entrées are divided into Sea and Farm, ranging from about $10 to to $90 for cote de boeuf. Each choice, including the fish, is hearty and substantial. Though portions are Hollywood-sized — in other words, small — Butchers & Barbers is not a good choice for someone trying to watch their cholesterol or stick to some semblance of a diet. Depending on how hungry the table is, these slightly bigger portions are barely enough to share.
For $10, the pork rillettes with grilled bread were delicious. Rillettes are essentially pork that has been cooked in its own fat, shredded and then chilled with salt and its own fat again to be made into a paste similar to a paté. Butchers & Barbers aces this dish — it isn’t too salty and the grilled bread is the perfect simple accompaniment to let the rillettes shine.
The grilled hanger steak, with Point Reyes blue cheese butter and la ratte potatoes, $24, is another hit on the menu. Though the blue cheese butter is altogether too rich and completely distracts from the steak, the meat itself is cooked to perfection and is a great portion for sharing. Customers should be sure to specify how they want their meat cooked, however, since everything came out rather rare even after a medium cook was requested.
For a student who’s looking for a fun dining experience, Butchers & Barbers does not disappoint. A meal for two including one glass of wine and one cocktail but no dessert came out to about $90. Butchers & Barbers is open Tuesday through Sunday, 6 p.m. to 2 a.m.