Pez Cantina delivers fresh and hearty Mexican fare

Just a block down from the Walt Disney Concert Hall in Bunker Hill, Pez Cantina sits in front of a large bank that does not initially scream “authentic Mexican food.” Once inside, however, one is immediately drawn to the cool ambiance and artful decor that promise an eventful dining experience.

Pez Cantina, the most recent project of ice cream parlor Milk’s co-founder Bret Thompson, only opened in December of last year. The restaurant seems to still be in the process of playing around with its menu and setup, as the menus were slightly different from each other — much to the chagrin of the waiter — and restaurant staff adjusted tables in the main dining room repeatedly throughout the night. The space Pez Cantina sits in is a bizarre L-shape that surely proved to be a challenge for its interior designer. That said, it does a good job of making the area feel coherent, and as its website says, like “an oasis-type atmosphere.”

The staff is attentive and friendly, though possibly a little stressed. Recommendations from the waiter are very welcome as the extensive menu offers so many enticing dishes that it can be difficult to decide on even a salsa flavor. Chips and salsa are $3. At first glance this might seem excessive, as they are usually offered at restaurants for free, but what Pez Cantina offers is more than worth the money. The chips are fresh and crisp, making it impossible to stop eating them, and the poblano crema salsa is creamy and aromatic. It is tempting to fill up on this alone, but well worth it to pace oneself as there is a lot at the restaurant worth tasting.

Pez Cantina’s menu has a lot going on, ranging from smaller plates perfect for sharing and reasonably priced at around $10 each, to pricier entrees starting from around $25. They also have an extensive taco menu offering more familiar tacos like al pastor, as well as unexpected ones like crispy sweetbreads and beef tongue. The restaurant offers up so many twists on traditional favorites that ordering a meal is an experience of its own.

The Yucatan pork taquitos are crispy and rich, but the real winning part of this appetizer is the bed of toasted almond guacamole they are artfully set upon. The subtle and fresh avocado pairs perfectly with the smoky nuts to provide a balanced and delicious dip.

The pez (fish) and chips, not a food one would usually expect to find at a Mexican restaurant, is buttery and rich with a wonderfully light batter that doesn’t overpower the fish. The lime aioli that comes with it is practically worth eating alone, and goes deliciously with almost anything dipped in it.

Their tacos are generously portioned, with plentiful heaps of meat on steaming tortillas and sprinklings of fresh onion and cilantro. The carne asada is tender and flavorful and pairs wonderfully with the salsa verde that comes next to it. The chicken tinga is sweet and smoky though a little bit watery, and the chile verde carnitas is rich and perfectly spicy. Grilled pineapple complements the al pastor taco, which is by far the best of the bunch. The crisped meat and the light bits of succulent fruit together create an amazing taco that is far too quick to go.

The only disappointment came from the watermelon agua fresca, which was more ice than drink and lacked the sweetness one expects from an agua fresca. But, dessert more than made up for it. Apple fritters generously dusted in cinnamon come with a scoop of made-in-house almond ice cream was the highlight of the dessert, if not the entire meal. The richness of the ice cream and the subtle bite of the cinnamon work wonderfully together to create a balanced end to dinner.

The tasteful presentation and fresh quality of the food suggests a pricier meal, but in fact, Pez Cantina provides a good deal for a reasonable price. Pez Cantina is a great dinner destination for students looking for a fun but upscale date spot that won’t break the bank, or a dinner with family after a visit to the Los Angeles Philharmonic down the street. Amid the bustle of downtown Los Angeles, the restaurant is a comfortable oasis and a must-try for those seeking a fresh twist on south-of-the-border cuisine.