Maccheroni Republic might just be pasta paradise

Tucked away from the bustle of Downtown and the unrelenting vroom of cars, is a little oasis for pasta lovers called Maccheroni Republic. Going in with a craving for Italian and a brief recommendation from a friend, I initially knew little of the Broadway trattoria, but left the restaurant feeling full and fulfilled—as if I had just had a home cooked meal.

As a native New Yorker, good Italian food had always been within my reach, whether we were talking dollar pizza “Italian” or decadent, truffle-topped pasta Italian. Coming to L.A., I knew there was plenty of food within driving distance, but it’s taken much more time to reach, so when that mentioned friend uttered the words “really good pasta”, I was quickly sold into giving Maccheroni Republic a chance—on a Sunday night.

Upon arriving, I was surprised that the restaurant was not located amidst lit-up, fast-paced surroundings despite its address on Broadway. Instead, Maccheroni Republic is nestled cozily into a smaller alleyway that intersects the main street: it is Downtown, but at the same time, not. In the evenings, the outdoor area is strung with dangling lights under a darkened sky. Warmed by the work of heated lamps, guests enjoy an intimate dining experience that mimics the ambience of a candlelit dinner indoors, with the breeze and open air that can only be found outside.

For this degree of privacy and thus sense of exclusivity, I was initially feared that the pasta and cream saucy goodness I craved would be out of my budget range. After scanning the items on the menu, however, I saw that few dishes were priced above $15. I breathed a sigh of relief and proceeded to the toughest decision of the night: picking which pasta dish to try.

Maccheroni Republic is best characterized as a trattoria, so its offerings are fairly simple. The restaurant serves appetizers, salads, soups, and homemade pastas, all staples that are priced moderately, given their quality of ingredients and attention to craft. With indecisiveness taking over, I decided to ask a waitress what she recommended and she explained that the restaurants three most popular dishes are the Bianchi & Neri, a black and white thin vermicelli dish with shrimp, mushroom, and roasted pancetta in a creamy bisque; Linguine Ai Frutti Di Mare, linguine with clams, bay scallops and shrimp in a tomato sauce; and Rigatoni Pom’Amore, a pasta in a creamy tomato sauce topped with burrata. Having been among the company of two other friends, we decided to share all three pastas along with an appetizer of fried calamari. Each pasta dish catered to varied preferences, but the general consensus was that each received high marks.

The black and white pasta was topped with a rich creamy sauce that was hearty but not overwhelming. Cooked with pancetta, the bacon-y flavor was present throughout all parts of the dish: from the vermicelli to the sauce. The linguine was definitely geared toward the seafood lover who would order it, but the pasta and sauce definitely did not lag behind; it made for a good base for the seafood and ensured that the shrimp and clams never felt too heavy. The rigatoni, lastly, made its appearance by being the most simple. It reminded me of the delight of a homemade pasta dish—just with a much more unique tomato sauce. It was a special blend of creamy and sweet that made an ordinary rigatoni dish just the more special. Though all three portions were on the smaller side, the bread that preceded the meal made for a dinner that was just filling enough.

Maccheroni Republic was created by Antonio Tommasi and Jean-Louis Mori, who are also known for Locanda Veneta, Ca’Brea and other regarded Italian eateries. According to an article published by the LA Times, the Maccheroni Republic empire is seeking to expand, with possible international locations on the way. Word on the street is that Hawaii might be the next to indulge in this pasta. Stay tuned!

Maccheroni Republic // 332 South Broadway // Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mon.-Fri. // Dinner: 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Mon.-Sat. // 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sun.

Viviane Eng is a freshman majoring in print and digital journalism. Her column, “Among Us & Other Things,” runs Thursdays.