Simbal offers dishes with Southeast Asian influence
Upon entering Simbal, diners immediately know they’ve walked into something special. Located in a hidden enclave of an otherwise saturated and bustling plaza in Little Tokyo, the restaurant is the brainchild of former Top Chef contestant Shawn Pham, who opened Simbal in early June after returning from a four-year trip to Vietnam. Inspired by Pham’s Southeast Asian background and recent travels, Simbal incorporates a mix of Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese ingredients into its flavorful dishes, balancing out the cool backdrop of the restaurant’s striking concrete interior.
The minimalist, industrial decor is a byproduct of the location — the restaurant sits next to a multi-story parking garage. Clean, simple lines and an open concept give the restaurant a relaxed attitude and immediate cool factor. But the real star of the show is Simbal’s open kitchen, which is visible from almost any table in the room and gives patrons a unique view into the restaurant world. Simbal’s inventive use of space is only one indication of Pham’s creativity. Another is the restaurant’s dishes, a twist on the usual Southeast Asian cuisine, including traditional favorites like the banh mi salad, as well as unexpected options like the short rib pot pie.
The friendly staff is eager to explain Simbal’s inner workings and untraditional menu, even offering to have the chef create something special just for the table. Plates are served tapas-style and are meant to share, so guests are encouraged to order two to three dishes each. In addition to its standard menu, the restaurant offers several off-the-menu items, which are wheeled around on dim sum carts and presented to patrons throughout their meals.
One off-the-menu option, the mushroom salad, earned high praise from the staff. Featuring several different mushrooms, the dish is a mix of familiar and unexpected notes. Each mushroom seems to complement the next, varying in size, texture and taste. The plate’s fish sauce offers a flavorful kick to the array of mushrooms, completing the dish with a spice to be expected from Southeast Asian cuisine. The portion of the mushroom salad was perhaps the most satisfying part of the dish — the plate was large enough to share but not overwhelming — the perfect amount of spice to start the meal.
The spiciness of the mushroom salad is best paired with the tangy sweetness of Simbal’s tofu and tuna dish, served with ponzu, sesame and scallions. A great indication of the restaurant’s innovative flavor, the dish’s fresh tofu and tuna complement each other flawlessly. While the tuna provided the dish’s texture, the tofu is incredibly soft, cutting with the slightest pressure of a utensil and infused with ponzu for a smooth, flavorful bite. Though small, the plate is a solid starter and good representation of Simbal’s signature style.
A recommendation by the server was another off-the-menu creation: a vegetarian dish with crispy tofu. Though proposed as more of an entree-sized plate, the serving is quite small and, unfortunately, so is the flavor. The crispy tofu provides a nice contrast in texture, but the rest of the dish lacks in spice and substance. The server initially promised a mixture of tofu and eggplant; however, it was immediately clear that the eggplant was absent with a dish of tofu arranged solely on the left half of the plate. A confusion to say the least, the tofu dish served as a small hiccup in an otherwise satisfying and flavorful meal.
The real standout and savior at Simbal is the restaurant’s southeast Asian twist on the short rib pot pie, with lemongrass, annatto and beef tendon. Though a larger vegetable-to-meat ratio could be expected, the generous portion of short rib is certainly not a disappointment. Cooked to perfection, the juicy short rib provides a great texture to the base of the pot pie but was not outdone by the crust. Flaky and toasty, the pie’s crust is anything but dry, and worthy of its own special mention. A creative use of ingredients and flavors on a classic of another culture, the short rib pot pie certainly showcased the innovation Simbal promised.
Simbal’s menu prices are quite reasonable, but a fair warning — plates are small and a 20 percent service charge is applied to all checks. Combined, these factors can quickly transform a typical dinner into a pricey feast — something to be considered for students on a budget. For those looking for a true twist on the traditional offerings of Little Tokyo. However, a splurge might be worth it to experience the innovative mix of cultural flavors Simbal has to offer.