Traditional beverage is designed to share
This past weekend I bought my first mate, which marks a major milestone in my immersion in the Argentine culture. Now you might be wondering: This far into her exchange and she is only just now immersing herself? And, what in the world is a mate?
Mate (pronounced mah-teh) is the traditional beverage of Argentina and essential to the life of an Argentine. It is a very caffeinated tea that is drank out of a special gourd. The name mate can be used both in reference to the physical cup, what I bought this weekend, or the drink itself. The mate yerba, which is similar to tea leaves, is packed into the gourd and then filled with hot water. The bombilla that you then use to drink the mate is a metal straw with a filter at the bottom that separates the herb from the liquid.
At first glance, someone might look at the mate yerba and think it’s some sort of bizarre tribal ritual drug, but Argentines drink mate just as many other countries drink coffee or tea. It is consumed at all times of the day, whether for a caffeine boost or to pass time with friends. Unlike coffee or tea, however, there is a ritual that comes with drinking mate. While there are slight variations depending on the region, the fundamentals are the same.
Usually, one mate is shared among a group. This might seem weird to germaphobic North Americans, but it is expected when you share mate with someone that you all drink from the same bombilla. The server is the one whose mate you are drinking from. He or she prepares the mate and is in charge of passing it around and refilling the hot water. Though personally I have never experienced this, in some traditions it is the chore of the youngest in the group to serve the elders.
The proper way to be a participant in the mate circle is as follows: When you are offered the mate, you are expected to accept it and drink the entire contents of the mate. This doesn’t have to be in one drink, but rather over the course of a few sips during the conversation. Don’t hold it too long while in a conversation though or you’ll be jokingly told that, “It’s not a microphone.” You then hand it back to the server. Never pass it on to the next person, that is the server’s job. He or she remembers the passing order and sticks to it. Then, when you have had enough, you say gracias. This was weird for me at first because it was my instinct to thank them after sharing, but I quickly learned that wasn’t correct.
This seemingly strange tradition is a great way to connect with people. I have enjoyed mate in a variety of scenarios during my time in Argentina. My first introduction to mate was with my landlord after I moved in to my house. Since then, I have been offered it many times during class from classmates or professors, at work and even when I was checking into a hostel in Iguazu. The receptionist offered me mate, and we passed it back and forth while he processed my reservation and gave me suggestions for my stay.
I am often asked by locals, “Do you like mate?” Some people say it’s a flavor that takes getting used to, but since I typically like more bitter drinks (black coffee, unsweetened tea, etc.) I loved it right away. Some people also put sugar in their mate to sweeten the yerba and cut the bitterness. This just depends on personal taste.
After my many shared mate experiences, I have grown to really appreciate the practice, particularly because it gives me a great gradual energy boost that helps me last through the long Argentine days. Noting this, I had been thinking for a while about buying a mate of my own but had been waiting to find one that was just right. They come in all shapes and sizes and are made out of different materials. I knew I wanted something on the smaller side that I could travel with and that was unique but also simple. This might sound like a lot of ridiculous criteria and thought for a mate, but this was a commitment and something that I hope to take back with me and have forever. Finally, after keeping an eye out for a long time, this weekend at the Feria de Mataderos, a traditional fair in Argentina, I found the perfect mate, a small smooth green wooden one. My friend recommended that I get wood because it absorbs more of the flavor than the leather ones that are often very beautiful.
Everyone has his or her own personal preferences, which you can see this in the variety of mates the locals carry around. You’ll never go a day without seeing someone on the street carrying their mate, typically accompanied by a thermos of hot water. There are even places that advertise the selling of hot water, this is how important it is. Though I haven’t invested in a thermos yet, I hope I can soon so that I can take my mate on the go just like a local. Until then, I’ll be enjoying my mate in the comfort of my home.
Alana Victor is a senior majoring in International Relations and Print and Digital Journalism. The column “Troy Meets World” runs every Wednesday.