Sotto presents intriguing southern Italian flavors

The guys behind the new upscale Italian eatery Sotto in West Los Angeles have quite a bit of pizza-producing experience — and it shows.

Both former chefs at the critically acclaimed Pizzeria Ortica in Orange County, Steve Samson and Zach Pollack have taken over the underground space that once housed Test Kitchen, a pop-up restaurant with constantly rotating chefs, and turned it into a source of more consistent cuisine.

Dimly lit by bulbs hanging above each reclaimed-wood table, the restaurant gives off a rustic, industrial vibe.

Its vast collection of wines, displayed in a high-ceiling glass encasement, adds to the ambience.

Although much of the menu requires some explanation, the pizzas are fairly self-explanatory.

Perhaps the restaurant’s specialty, the pizzas are the perfect size to be shared by a pair, or even devoured by one very hungry eater.

Among Sotto’s pizza offerings are the more standard marinara and margherita, as well as a pie topped with pork cheek and scallions; one topped with lardo, sunchokes and fennel and another topped with the interesting but delicious combination of sausage, broccoli, mozzarella and chilies.

The crust is baked to perfection, remaining fluffy but not overly doughy, with the perfect amount of crispness.

To create the perfect pizza, Samson and Pollack enlisted third-generation oven-maker Stefano Ferrara, who hails from Naples, to construct the massive, hand-built Neapolitan pizza oven residing in the restaurant’s kitchen.

The oven, one of less than 10 Ferrara has built around the country, guarantees any of the five pizzas on the menu will be cooked to perfection.

Besides pizza, the menu contains an array of other Italian options waiting to be explored, though it lacks staples like fettucine and tortellini.

Though their names give little insight into what the dishes listed under the headings “Small,” “Medium,” “Large” and “Pasta” actually are, the waiters are extremely helpful, providing both descriptions and personal recommendations.

My waiter recommended pittule pugliese, the quality of which proved his good taste.

The fried balls of dough topped with vincotto, which translates to “cooked wine” and is a dark, dense grape juice, and ricotta cheese provide the perfect combination of savory with a hint of sweet.

These might even be enjoyed at the end of the meal, acting as a good segue into the cannoli and other Italian desserts.

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves: The “Medium,” “Large” and “Pasta” offerings have yet to be explored.

Mustard green and finocchietto minestra, a soup that contains faro, Calabrian chilies, pecorino and egg, is a standout in the menu’s medium plates section, along with the grilled pork meatballs and Devil’s Gulch pig coratella.

Fennel-crusted pork chop, veal brisket á la Genovese and bone-in lamb breast in agrodolce are some of the larger options.

Much like the rest of the menu, the pasta selection is far from standard.

The maharrones de pungiu is similar in substance to gnocchi and is topped with a sugo semplice, which translates to “simple sauce” — marinara with a Sotto twist.

For those seeking something a little more adventurous in the pasta realm, there is also squid ink fusilli lunghi with pistachios, bottarga and mint and toasted grain capunti with ragu bianco, a white meat-based sauce, black trumpet mushrooms and rapini greens.

The food, which boasts surprisingly reasonable prices considering the high quality and taste infused in every bite, can be complemented by one of Sotto’s specialty cocktails or a glass of wine from its lengthy list of bottles from Southern Italy and California.

With its unique menu, Sotto seems to have no trouble attracting customers.

Even after 9 p.m. on Saturday night — granted it was the restaurant’s opening weekend — the restaurant was packed.

So grab a few friends, make a reservation and take your tastebuds on a trip to the southern tip of Italy.

 

Sotto is located on 9575 West Pico Blvd. in Los Angeles.