Bali elucidates economic disparity between lifestyles


My friends and I joke that we have vitamin D deficiency thanks to sunless Melbourne. Luckily, a cure was imminent — a 10-day holiday to Bali.

Because of Australia’s proximity to Asia, I seized the opportunity to explore a new country on a continent I had never visited before. We decided to spend our university spring break period in Indonesia because I have never been to Asia before. I knew virtually nothing about Indonesia, so I was keen to ask a lot of questions to learn about the seemingly unknown country. The answers did not fully prepare me for the adventure I was about to embark on.

Bali is famous for its beautiful beaches, authentic Indonesian cuisine, breathtaking nature, volcanoes — which are inactive for the most part — and thousands of temples that scatter the land. The ocean water is very nice, especially in the Gili Islands, which are more than an hour away by boat from the mainland. Hiking the volcanoes provides breathtaking views of the sunrise, as well as friendly encounters with cheeky monkeys. These monkeys are adorable, but also quite mischievous. One monkey stole an entire pack of biscuits from a girl’s backpack, while another would throw crackers on the ground that it deemed unacceptable.

Temples play a prominent role in Balinese culture. On almost every street corner, there is some form of mini sanctuary that features a carved, usually black statue that locals decorate and leave banana leaf baskets of fruit and flower offerings. The nature is breathtaking with views of rice fields, forests and
ever-present wildlife.

Smells wafting from the market place meld with the colors of crocheted clothing and dream catchers, creating a sensational experience. Color is a dominant force in Bali, with the abundance of distinctive fruits and colors incorporated into small restaurants and beach clubs. One beach in particular features a multicolored brasserie with rainbow bean bag chairs and umbrellas perfect for watching the sunset on the beach

Bali is an especially attractive destination for Aussies — not only because of its proximity, but also because of its cheap prices. Meals cost anywhere from $5 to $12, and taxi rides generally cost just only a couple of dollars. Spa treatments are especially cost effective, as basic one-hour massages only cost $5. The tourism market has a large presence throughout the cities; one block can have several hotels in a row providing a variety of experiences for visitors.

In front of these tourist hubs, however, social inequality is very apparent. When walking anywhere, faces of poverty loom. Young Balinese men approach incoming tourists offering them rides on motorbikes, even offering to place three people on one bike in order to make a sale. Peddlers on the beach offer a variety of services including pedicures, henna tattoos and massages, while others sell products and food. I found the peddlers carrying bamboo sticks that have peanut plants suspended on either side to be particularly distinctive. The worst appearance of the country’s poverty, however, is the young children who walk barefoot trying to sell bracelets to make ends meet.

While marveling at the inexpensive nature of Bali, it is hard to remember just how dire the situation is for some. They remind us of simple things we take for granted. For example, the bathrooms may not flush properly because of the eco-water system that attempts to conserve water, yet in so many houses in the suburbs, indoor plumbing is a luxury, as are sturdy doors and glass window panes.

Around USC, it’s pretty hard to miss levels of income disparity within a five-mile radius. People dwelling on the street, potentially walking around at night or living in small houses that relied on the University Village as a source of income are all parts of reality encountered daily. However, in Bali, there is an appearance of financial equality when it is actually a developing nation. The GDP per capita of Indonesia is about $3,475.  Out of the country’s population of more than 252 million, 28 million live under the poverty line.  The inequity fuels the underground market, as theft, drug dealing and prostitution leave a mark on Bali’s tourism.

One of my friends exchanged Australian dollars to Indonesian Rupiah one day and experienced the effects of the underground market’s presence. Despite taking painstaking precautionary measures, carefully counting the money that was returned, and holding her purse tightly, upon arrival to the hotel she noticed a good chunk of money was clearly missing. The experience was almost a violation of her personal bubble. Here she was trying to give the exchangers a fair opportunity in exchange for their deflating currency. The amount, though, was clearly not enough, as a person snuck out a sizeable portion out of the wad of 50,000 rupiah bills. Pickpocketing of phones and wallets is also particularly common.

Infrastructure and traffic control is virtually absent here. When we asked our hotel for directions to the bank, he told us, “It’s right after the first stoplight!” To me, it was alarming that the stoplight, despite its dilapidated nature, was a frame of reference for directions. Cars commonly pass using the opposing lanes. Motorcyclists, riding without helmets, drive through the sidewalks, honking at pedestrians

Visiting Bali exposed me to a common duality — the experience of the tourist and the experience of the local — in a way I have never seen. Though Bali offers ample experiences in both relaxation and exploration, it also provides a humbling factor, one that is met with vigilance but also a sense of understanding.

Nika Shahery is a junior majoring in international relations and policy, planning and development. Her column, “Aussie Adventure,”
runs Thursdays.