Kogi BBQ chef branches out with new restaurant in Los Angeles

It’s been well documented recently in local media that many areas in Los Angeles — especially in South Central — are “food deserts.”  This means these areas have many more fast food restaurants and liquor stores than places to get fresh, healthy food. When fast food is cheaper and more convenient than making the trek to find fresh produce, eating healthy is almost impossible. L.A. food deserts include Inglewood, Compton, Bell and Watts.

That’s where Roy Choi, known for his wildly popular Kogi BBQ Taco Truck, and Daniel Patterson, a well-known San Francisco-based chef, come in. Choi and Patterson just opened a healthy,
reasonably-priced fast food restaurant in Watts, an underserved area, southeast of University Park. LocoL, which opened on Jan. 18, aims to provide nutritious meals for a reasonable price — and succeeds in doing so. The food, which could be described as a fusion of Korean, Mexican and traditional American cuisines, is delicious.

The “foldies,” which is Choi’s version of a soft shell taco, were mouthwatering and, priced at only $2 each, are a good accompaniment to other menu items. The Carnitas foldie was standout; tender pieces of pork, beans and hints of lime wrapped in a warm taco, so good you probably wouldn’t want to share. Other foldies include bean-n-cheese, which is a delicious vegetarian option — not as exciting as the other flavors, but a classic done well. Try the BBQ turkey and machaca (shredded beef with marinade.)

For entrees there are two main options; “burgs” or “bowls.” The burgers are relatively simple but are done well and do not feel heavy or greasy. There are cheeseburgers (both beef and vegetarian) served with scallion relish and “awesome sauce,” a fried chicken burger, which uses minced bits of chicken mixed with a small amount of grain and coleslaw and a BBQ turkey burger served with buttermilk mayo. The buns are light and fluffy, although a little smaller than one would normally expect.

While the “Noodleman” bowl is a good option for vegetarians (though, there are a multitude of vegetarian options at LocoL) it does not have as much flavor as other menu items. Soft noodles with cabbage, carrot and a warm broth is a nice concept and  apparently is the most popular bowl on the menu. For $6, it is good, but there are menu items that are a little less bland. The “Messy Beef Chili Bowl” packs more of a flavor punch and is Choi’s favorite item on the menu.

The soft serve sundaes are delicious. Soft vanilla ice cream with mashed bananas, a passionfruit and pineapple sauce and granola for crunch. It is not overwhelmingly sweet and the tanginess of the sauce works well with the mellow creaminess of the banana. Coffee (hot or cold, black or sweet and creamy) and agua frescas are both $1. Tying in with the healthy motive, there are no sodas for sale.

Although the breakfast menu does not start for another two weeks, with different flavored “egg in the hole,” “French toast holes” and “Yogurt and Granola.” Judging by how successful the lunch and dinner menus are, it surely won’t disappoint.

Choi acts as more than just the creator; he is often at the store greeting customers and overseeing operations. For him and co-founder Patterson, LocoL is more than just a restaurant. They aim to empower through food and change the mindset that good food has to be unhealthy. The restaurant might be “for-profit”, but the profit margins are low enough to keep prices reasonable. It is staffed by locals and is for locals, although there are many from further afield that were drawn in by Choi and Patterson’s reputations.

The seating is all lounge style, and instead of glass there are screen windows. The open kitchen coupled with cartoon style wall decoration makes for a relaxed ambience that immediately hits you upon entering.

For USC students looking for a fast but healthy option in South Central, head to the intersection of Anzac Avenue and 103rd Street.