REVIEW: The Edmon serves an elegant array of fine dining options

Nestled between the Hollywood Historic Hotel and radiating from the drabness of Melrose Avenue stands The Edmon, a modern-day testament to the gilded age of Hollywood.

Visitors were greeted by the ornate front door embossed with a bold “E” before entering into a dimly lit, spacious dining room reminiscent of the 1920s.

With classic Art Deco architecture, soaring ceilings, softly glowing chandeliers and a glittering bar that stretched the expanse of the back wall, the room effortlessly evoked a
Gatsby-esque elegance. The towering bar — stocked with a kaleidoscopic display of liquors and framed with decorated wooden panels — was the dining room’s most impressive feature, while the rest of its dark dining tables paled in comparison.

A series of throwback tunes featuring The Beatles and similar bands created an energized yet relaxing ambience. Even the bathrooms aligned with the calm, chic atmosphere, with gilded matte black wallpaper and clean-cut, black-and-white tiling.

The Edmon’s dinner menu consisted of an extensive cocktail, wine and beer menu, sectioned off by starters, plates, sides, shareable plates and charcuterie. It diverged from traditional offerings such as salads and soups and instead harkens to the extravagance of the Jazz Age, replete with small intrigues such as toasted hemp seeds, sunchoke veloute and fried quail egg.

The menus were printed on crisp, parchment-like paper with calligraphic adornments that fit the old-timey theme.

The Edmon boasted a variety of cured meats and cheeses in different combinations and shareable sizes for different prices. The two-person charcuterie dish came on an elegantly minimalist wooden board with wild boar salami, Spanish ham, prosciutto, blue cheese and goat cheese arranged alongside a selection of sauces such as dijon mustard, whole grain mustard and ghost pepper jam. The ensemble was  complemented by a delightfully crisp and soft freshly baked bread basket.

What the main plates lacked in vegetarian options, they more than make up for with vibrant flavors and refined presentation. The Tasmanian trout was grilled to perfection with a briny crust atop tender fish, imbued with citrus undertones. It was presented alongside red frill mustard, orange segments, radishes and an apple reduction sauce. The lamb shank ragu with thick sheets of buckwheat pappardelle pasta had astonishingly tender slices of meat and a decadent vegetable-infused sauce.

Other main course options — with prices ranging from $17 to $34 — included a hanger steak, roasted half chicken and wild boar chop, all with flairs of fanciful flavors and accompaniments conceptualized by executive chef Gabriel Cappelli.

For dessert, the bread pudding came fresh from the oven in a scorching square skillet, topped with toasted honey meringue and white chocolate pearls. With just one bite, the pudding melts easily.  The only other dessert option was a banana split with vanilla and strawberry miso ice cream, chocolate ganache and matcha white chocolate. However, the menu also offered a diversity of dessert wines.

After each course, plates and utensils were cleared and the table was carefully wiped clean of crumbs and greases by a server. Though food service was slow, the servers were attentive, personable and knowledgeable about the unique nuances of the restaurant’s offerings.

Ultimately, The Edmon may be out of most college students’ budgets; the restaurant is frequented by celebrities. However, its timeless homage to the Golden Age of Hollywood and its endlessly piquant menu render it an artistic and culinary jewel that, despite the cost, is definitely worth indulging in at least once.