That’s Fashion, Sweetie: Chanel and Dior follow the leader

In an industry as large as fashion, drawing inspiration from other brands is bound to happen. Often, designers will announce collections that are inspired by, or pays homage to, other people and scenes. 

Sometimes, even major business decisions happen as a domino effect after one brand changes its company or values. For example, Dolce & Gabbana recently followed Moncler in its no-fur decision. While I am not a fan of Dolce & Gabbana at all — who are known for their anti-Black and anti-Asian remarks — I’m happy they are at least going fur-free. 

And, while imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, it becomes an issue when the line of separation blurs too much. Watchful eyes, such as Highsnobiety and Diet Prada are usually on top of these yellow flags, but in case you didn’t want to leave this column, let me break down why Hermès has been in everyone’s mouth this year.

The most obvious brand that has started to try and be more like Hermès is, surprisingly, Chanel. I’ve always felt that Chanel had a very particular feel and aura to the brand — the tweed, quilts and flashes of gold unique to them. But last year, Chanel started to raise its bag prices.

It could be because of economical reasons — as the coronavirus pandemic worsened, tourism numbers decreased, companies closed in-person boutiques and attempted to save some cash. However, prices raised again in January — the fourth time in 12 months — and prices of its Coco Handle bags increased between 8.7% and 11.6%, depending on the size of the bag, and the flap bag from between 4% to 7%.

The reason? Most likely to stay competitive with Hermès and attempt to reach Birkin and Kelly status. For those who don’t know, an Hermès customer cannot go in and buy a Birkin or Kelly bag. Instead, these bags, ranging from $12,000 to $18,000 for a Birkin or $7,500 to $50,000 for a Kelly, which depend on size, color, material and hardware, are purchased by invite only. 

Yes, you have to be invited to purchase a Birkin or Kelly. 

And, yet, people go wild over these bags. The exclusivity makes people want them more, as if to subtly say, “Look! Look at me! I’m amazing and rich!” So, now, Chanel is trying to emulate this insane brand loyalty with these increased prices.

However, Chanel’s attempts to compete with Hermès seem to falter as the new Chanel Spring- Summer 2022 collection is not trying to compete with Hermès but, instead, took the shape of Hermès and its history.

Hermès got huge for its involvement with equestrian and horse riding — hence the reason its stores have saddles, horsehouse accessories and a horse carriage logo. Chanel even opened its SS22 show with a horse. 

Chanel additionally, had Charlotte Casiraghi, model, writer, daughter of Caroline (Princess of Hanover) and 11th in line to the throne of Monaco, trot down the runway on her horse KusKus. I mean, the dots are pretty connected. Need I say more?

But Hermès’ significant influence doesn’t only apply to Chanel. Another major brand that followed suit is, equally surprisingly, Dior. 

Last January, Hermès announced Hermès Fit, a gym to get your (chic and sleek) sweat on, that was Hermès themed and decorated with its signature burnt orange. While these were pop-up gyms set up internationally, it was still a great PR move to promote post quarantine health and fitness and its brand. 

Two months later, Dior announced a partnership with Technogym. It also released fitness equipment and set up pop-up gyms, where it invited people to come in and train in the Dior gym space. 

I’m not sure what Dior will do next or if its next move will also mimic Hermès. But seeing its latest collection, adorned with its classic, light florals and new collaboration with Birkenstock — which will be the only pair I will actively try to buy — it seems this might be a one-time coincidence.

Am I reading into this too much? You tell me.

But one thing is pretty clear: In the world of high fashion, Hermès is an it girl. 

Hadyn Phillips is a freshman writing about fashion in the 21st century, specifically spotlighting students and popular controversy. Her column, “That’s Fashion, Sweetie,” runs every other Monday.