Nosh & Sip: Camphor delights in Los Angeles’ Arts District
The first time I had a French baguette, my imagination ran wild and was instantly transported to Paris. I was no longer sitting at a table inside a coffee shop in Los Angeles but instead gazing at the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, window shopping at Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior and walking in Jardins du Trocadéro next to the Eiffel Tower. Afterward, I rode the subway through the Paris Arrondissements from St. Germain to Marais and soaked in the Parisian culture by eating bouillabaisse, coq au vin, Paris-Brest and drinking a glass of delicious champagne.
In an attempt to replicate this magical feeling, I went to Camphor. Walking into the contemporary French bistro’s modern, open, white interior with natural accents elicits a sense of freedom and plays like an artist’s blank canvas. The restaurant is a welcomed addition to the food scene in L.A.’s Arts District. Led by co-executive chefs Max Boonthanakit and Lijo George, bar stools line the open kitchen, known as the “chef’s counter” seating, giving diners a full view of the kitchen’s activities.
The wine program, led by Kalani Lau, is adorned predominantly by French wines and global gems from California and Italy. After selecting a beautiful White Burgundy from a small vineyard in the Cote d’Or called Santenay Clos de Malte, the chefs sent a glass of rose sparkling wine and the first bite to begin the evening. While the cuisine is French, there were South Asian influences found in the amuse-bouche, a small dome cracker topped with white bean hummus, harissa and chives, decorated by a bed of dried, colorful lentils.
I sat in a blue velvet banquette seat, which provided a great view of the restaurant and the slowly filling dining room. The first section of the menu was titled “snacks,” and the warm sourdough bread option caught my eye. It was thickly sliced and served with a cloud of Époisses butter, a perfect mixture of French butter and the classical creamy and pungent fragrant cheese hailing from Burgundy in France.
The design of the menu was clean and clear, mirroring the elegance of the dining room. Following the snack section were a selection of starters, sides, salads, mains and desserts, all mouthwatering and easy to navigate. The beef tartare was exceptionally executed and served with herb tempuras, whose crunchy texture was an unexpected match to the finely minced and elevated beef. Barbajuan Dungeness crab was a playful pastry pillow served with a white sauce and small sweet peppadew red peppers.
The perfectly cooked lobster was drizzled tableside with a delicious curry coral jus, and a separate plate of its innards was served with a creamy sauce and garnished with chives. The glazed vegetables with truffle added to the lightness of the meal.
For dessert, the kiwi with a hint of mint made for an impressive end to the night. The presentation was a delightful feast for your senses; visually, the delectable treat was topped with a frozen green sorbet decorated as if it were a real kiwi and below were decadent textures of kiwi and lime gelee. As mignardise, two cute mini macaroons with lime ganache were served at the end of the meal. From start to finish, the meal was expertly executed from the front of the house to the back of the house.
As a busy student balancing a full-time job, it’s not easy to travel to Paris on a Friday night, but with a little bit of imagination, it is always possible to bring Paris here. Camphor is the perfect destination for a Parisian date night out where you can experience an abundance of art, culture, food and wine, all while being in the comfort of our home in L.A.
Rachel Macalisang is a graduate student at the Iovine & Young Academy writing about her journey through the culinary world of Los Angeles. Her column Nosh & Sip runs every other Wednesday.