That’s Fashion, Sweetie: LaQuan Smith doesn’t think I’m a slut

With debuts from brands like Mirror Palais and accessories like Coach’s leather sling messenger bags, this year’s New York Fashion Week has been nothing short of exciting. I can only dream of owning runway pieces from Dion Lee, Luar and Brandon Maxwell. But the week’s true standout show that gave me everything I could ever want and more was LaQuan Smith’s Spring 2023 collection.

The collection was nothing short of spectacular. Staying true to his brand, his clothes ranged from sheer oranges to sequined purples to Barbie pinks. The cuts of his garments — still featuring an ultra-cropped cut — toed the fine line between active nudity and ultimate Mia Goth-red lipstick stain-boyshort lacy underwear sexiness. The shorter the skirts and the closer to a nip-slip the better, and there were absolutely no cover-ups under the sheer blouses and dresses. 

But what truly caught my attention was Smith’s play with metal and hardware pieces. While he did incorporate metal breastplates into the sleek black dresses in a fashion similar to Gabriela Hearst and Schiaparelli, his penultimate look was absolutely breathtaking: Frida Aasen, a face very familiar from Smith’s shows, wore mini metal angel wings as her bra-top and a simple black midi skirt with silver hardware draping at the waist. 

Immediately, my inner Miranda Priestly began to wonder which pieces from his collection would trickle down into the world of fast fashion – we’ve already seen the cropped fur-lined jackets and daring bodysuit cuts. But, considering that a lot of runway pieces are simply that – runway and not necessarily ready-to-wear – would I even feel comfortable or, rather, confident enough to wear the angel wing bra and hardware-draped midi skirt that blew me away?

Probably not, especially due to the fear that I would be called a slut or a whore or accused of seeking attention. This topic is extremely sensitive and frustrating among women, especially since we don’t get dressed with the intent to be a “slut” – we just want to look good, and what we look good in is whatever we’re feeling at that moment. 

Simultaneously, different body types result in differing reactions; a larger-breasted woman might be called an attention whore for wearing the same top as a woman who is an A-cup. And, of course, there is the constant frustration that our wardrobe is pinpointed as disturbing and distracting while our male counterparts are often never reprimanded. 

All of this can be traced to the traditional role of women. A woman is historically treated as an accessory to men – like a surprise pair of extra shoes in your Polly Pocket set. Often being identified in association with her male counterpart by taking on nicknames like Mrs. [his name], it is then her role to be dutiful to her husband. With that, she is only to be the object of desire of one sole man, not the public, and people’s romantic or sexual attraction must therefore be decided by her and her actions. So, when she dresses provocatively or suggestively, apparently, she’s doing exactly that – suggesting her status, availability, etc. – and straying away from her role as a good wife and/or a good, respectable woman. 

So, when we wear things like see-through dresses and breastplates in public, we are deemed sluts in the most negative, evil definition of the term. The public has an opinion that is set forth by a majority and standards set by human history – the history of countries, of cultures and of the human evolution from animal to ‘man.’ We have progressed enough to build such fortunes of cities and governments and with this comes an expectation of everything that we invented or evolved with, such as the active presence of full-coverage clothing. This is why we don’t expect animals to dress daily unless for the pleasure and/or sport of humans’ entertainment.

But in fashion, we emphasize personality, art and history. There is a desire to look at things from a different perspective – consistently new, fresh and original – whether this means the complete opposite of human’s adoption of garments with total nudity or scratching the surface and playing with things like fabrics, hemlines and structures or commenting on human suffering and indulgence through performance art. 

Does this mean, then, that there can never be a peaceful amalgamation of the both sides? Will one have to give in more than the other? It is, indeed, confusing because of how much influence and intersection exists between the regular world and fashion. If there is a strong desire to come together more in a judgment-free and progressive relationship with expression and clothing, who must ensure there is fairness in a seamless blending? It’s difficult to even fathom a win-win situation since the ability to grow comes with the ability to have opinions – something I love to have. People will continue to think what they want and whether or not it changes is not up to their environment or habits, but simply and solely up to them. We must continue to remind ourselves that growing up is about being able to determine your own decisions AND feel confident in them. 

I’m still figuring that out, but for right now, I find a lot of comfort knowing that at least LaQuan Smith doesn’t think I’m a slut. 

Hadyn Phillips is a sophomore writing about fashion in the 21st century, specifically spotlighting new trends and popular controversy. Her column, “That’s Fashion, Sweetie,” runs every other Thursday.