REVIEW: On Melrose, a chef knows cauliflower inside and out
On the corner of Melrose and Sweetzer Avenues sits a posh, dimly lit restaurant that is the quintessential spot for a classy Friday night dinner. The cozy booths and crisp tablecloths create the atmosphere of an upscale Los Angeles restaurant. In a unique twist, it’s 100% plant-based.
If you are an avid burger eater, don’t get scared away. Crossroads Kitchen doesn’t serve bland salads and grassy-flavored greens. Instead, menu items burst with flavor and delicacy.
The only downside of the restaurant is the sometimes small portions for high prices, such as the $18 Cheese Plate and $32 Eggplant Skirt Steak. However, it is worth a try next time you feel like treating yourself, mainly because the entree’s prices compare to those at a nice steakhouse or seafood restaurant.
Still, based on the restaurant’s aesthetic Instagram page and notable reputation within the plant-based community, I decided to try it.
Starting with the perfect Poached Pear & Whipped Feta appetizer, I was immediately blown away. The bed of whipped feta and bleu cheese was creamy and tasted identical to its dairy counterparts. Pears, grapes, celery and chives sat on the non-dairy cheese, covered with a sweet drizzle on top. The salty cheese and sweet toppings complemented the appetizer’s fresh sourdough toast.
I could not get enough of Crossroads’ artisan almond-based cheeses, so I had to order its signature Cheese Plate. With Camembert-bleu, Boursin and quince paste, the appetizer did not disappoint. The tangy cheeses spread on the side of a baguette transported me to France with each bite. This is a great choice if you’re looking to sample a variety of cheeses.
Moving on to salads, I tried the Baby Beet and Ceasar. Although the Baby Beet was topped with a delicious feta and balsamic, I was disappointed by the smaller portion compared to other salads on the menu. The salad did not have lettuce, which should be specified on the menu, but it’s a good option for beet fanatics who want a whole plate of multicolored roots. The Caesar salad was impeccable, with crunchy croutons, the softest parmesan, and a rich dressing.
As a pasta devotee, I tasted the Spaghetti Carbonara, Linguine Scallops, Spicy Rigatoni Vodka and Lasagna Bolognese (from most to least favorite). The spaghetti carbonara was unique, with an all plant-based blend of juicy egg yolk, creamy white cheese sauce, and smoky pork bits. The Linguine Scallops were a close second with its zesty white wine garlic butter sauce and perfectly sauteed mushroom scallops. The Spicy Rigatoni Vodka was also great, mainly because of the perfectly fluffy parmesan. While there was nothing wrong with the lasagna bolognese, it did not compare to the other pastas.
The Scallopini Parmesan was the only item I tasted from the protein section. It was a sizable and crispy piece of plant protein chicken with a fresh marinara sauce and amazing parmesan.
The Truffle Mushroom Bianca pizza was a solid 10 out of 10. The pizza’s truffle flavor is very prominent in every bite and is perfect for my fellow truffle aficionados.
Another, more affordable way to taste Crossroads’ imported truffles is through its truffle potatoes on the vegetable menu. These square-cut potatoes topped with fresh thyme and shaved parmesan were among the crispiest potatoes I have ever tasted. For a lighter option, roasted cauliflower is another excellent vegetable choice. However, I would avoid the Rockefeller style Baked Mushroom Scallops, which were too tender and briney for my liking.
If you have room for dessert, try the Brownie Sundae and the Sorbet of the Day, which were delicious. But, seeing some of the other eclectic desserts making their way to nearby tables, I concluded that they all looked delectable.
As a longtime plant-based restaurant enthusiast, I can confidently say that Crossroads is one of the classiest and most delicious restaurants I have been to. It differentiates itself from other plant-based restaurants by mimicking the atmosphere of a traditional ornamental restaurant. Only some days do you find a vegan restaurant offering such upscale dining and high-quality ingredients.