Fashion week has just packed its bags, moving from New York City to the chic streets of London, Paris and Milan.

In case you missed it, here are some fashion week TLDRs.

At Emporio Armani’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, models were seen smiling down the runway — a big difference from the typical foxy and neutral expression worn when walking down the catwalk. The models’ soft smiles complemented the light and airy fabrics of Armani’s collection. As Armani said, “I think we could all use a little more lightness in our lives but experiencing it is often a challenge. Perhaps it is easier to achieve in clothing.”

While models also smiled in Collina Strada’s New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 collection, they were more … jarring. The clothes themselves remained bright, whimsical and nostalgic with fun hems and shimmering jewels, but the almost Kubrick-esque smiles of the models seemed like a prank. The collection notes explained the models’ too-big smiles reflected a rapidly deteriorating world: “As we grin and bear the excruciating present, in which the world burns and reproductive, trans and general human rights are under threat, we summon the strength of radical softness.”

Fellow Trojan Natalia Bryant made her fashion week debut at Versace’s latest collection.

SUNNEI made headlines for the interactive element of its collection. While niche catwalk concepts aren’t new to the brand, as they featured crowd surfing in its Fall/Winter 2023 collection, this felt a little more personal: SUNNEI handed paddles to audience members as they walked in and let them judge the outfits as models came down the runway.

In an interview with HypeBae, creative directors Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo remarked, “For us, all of our shows need to be a suspended moment. It’s a moment of craziness but also reality. We want you to play with us. The show needs to be about togetherness, presence and thought.”

The big talk of the town, though, was Sabato De Sarno’s debut collection for Gucci Spring/Summer 2024. With a custom soundtrack from music producer Mark Ronson to accompany the collection, the thumping, futuristic beats of Romy and Lykkie Li accompanied a very minimalistic collection.

The show was titled “Ancora,” a nod to Italian song “Ancora, Ancora, Ancora” by Mina (which was played at the end of the show.) The word, which translates to “more” or “again” in Italian, commented on the “feeling of intense desire De Sarno hoped to inspire.” “Ancora” can also mean “anchor,” and De Sarno hopes his debut collection sets a solid foundation for his future seasons at Gucci.

However, the minimalist collection wasn’t loved by all. Some consumers were unimpressed, claiming in comment sections it was too similar to Miu Miu, Prada and Ferragamo; some even went as far as to say it was giving Zara or Mango. There were even questions as to why such a soft and simple collection was debuted in the Gucci headquarters — a large industrial space.

Well, there’s a reason for that: the weather. Intending to show in Milan’s old districts, the collection would have been much better complemented by the cobblestones in the streets of Brera.

I, for one, thought it was incredibly beautiful.

With deep cherry wine reds, clean-cut shapes, baby doll dresses and beautiful accessories, De Sarno’s debut was incredibly elegant and a breath of fresh air from Alessandro Michele’s Gucci. I say this as someone who loves minimalism — I’m a bigger fan of Tom Ford’s Gucci than Michele’s — and I believe that’s why I loved De Sarno’s debut so much more. My personal favorite was look 20: a simple white tank top with the words “GUCCI” embroidered on the left V-neck hem in all capitals, paired with a burgundy skirt with crystal fringe and a matching burgundy purse and pumps.

De Sarno’s collection included pieces that were beautiful on their own but timeless enough to be worn and loved again and again, and this confidence in consumers was evident in the stock market. After the collection, Kering had a 4.2% rise in shares, finishing the day at a 1.6% increase.

Business of Fashion just headlined a new article titled “Can Lightning Strike Thrice at Gucci?” Writer Tim Blanks explains how each creative director before (Ford and Michele) all swooped in to save Gucci when on the precipice of falling into a pit of irrelevancy, but De Sarno’s debut was a little bland.

I have to defend De Sarno (and his hints of Ford’s Gucci). I think De Sarno hit a home run. While the season is long and sales numbers will tell us if others feel the same way, I can only say this: Molto ben fatto!

Hadyn Phillips is a junior writing about fashion in the 21st century, specifically spotlighting new trends and popular controversy. Her column, “That’s Fashion, Sweetie,” runs every Wednesday.