THAT’S FASHION, SWEETIE

Love all: A competition of tradition

In the continued battle for “proper” tennis attire, is it time to give in to tradition? Or keep pushing for stylistic freedom on the court?

By HADYN PHILLIPS
Former tennis player Maria Sharapova often competed on the court clad in designer outfits and bedazzled tennis dresses, breaking out of the mold for traditional tennis uniforms. (Justin Smith / Flickr)

Welcome back from spring break, dear readers. I hope everyone got the rest they needed and is  ready for our last sprint of the semester. I know I’m not, but that doesn’t mean I won’t get there!

It’s been kind of a crazy week with the announcement of a potential full banning of TikTok — pending the Senate and presidential vote on the issue. TikTok has proven itself in its expansion beyond social media into forms of employment, a second Google, and a safe haven for creatives and comedics alike. I guess at this point, we’ll just have to wait and see.

In the meantime, maybe this article can take your mind off of it for a few minutes.

I have a confession to make; I have been avidly online, window shopping for summer clothes. The warm California sun really has been making my days feel like Natasha Bedingfield’s “Pocketful of Sunshine” and “Unwritten,” even if a cold wind flaps in my face as I scooter home.

I know I’ve been searching for three things: the first is some cute swim tops, preferably adorned with charms or beads along the strings; the second is a maxi slip dress that has the pattern of silk scarves; the third is a tennis dress.

Listen, I don’t have any plans to play tennis or pickleball soon, but something about a tennis set has really been calling my name lately. Specifically, I’ve been drawn to the on-court fashion of Maria Sharapova, who wore dresses with lace cutouts, Swarovski crystals, and — in a very Serena van der Woodsen way — a tuxedo tank top and shorts combination.

I recently watched a video about fashion in tennis, and I didn’t realize how much it has influenced both the modern athleisure and general style of today. For example, Chris Evert losing her string of diamonds on her wrist during the 1978 U.S. Open led to the popular term “tennis bracelet.”

But it goes beyond naming conventions, as we’ve seen fashion used as a way to push back against stereotypes and rigidity in such a popular sport. In 2018, Serena Williams famously wore fishnets and a tutu in response to French Tennis Federation President Bernard Giudicelli’s response to her all-black catsuit she wore at the previous game, claiming that she didn’t “respect the game and the place.”

This is not just a matter of sexism, though, as attire has historically been a conflict for players of both genders. Just three months ago at the Australian Open, the game was delayed because Hungarian player Marton Fuscovics, was in apparent violation of the dress code by displaying more than one commercial logo of a particular size on his warmup.

Wimbledon itself has a very strict dress code of all white — no “off-white or cream” — including shoes and accessories. Fun fact: shoes were later enforced when Roger Federer wore white sneakers with orange soles. Small sponsor logos are allowed to contain color, but beyond that, only one centimeter — which will be measured — of a colored trim on the garments is permitted.

It’s interesting to read about the strict style requirements, especially because I usually feel that in most sports, style can be often traded off for practicality. Maybe it ties back to the concept of uniforms, and therefore, individuality blooming beyond the sport courts — such as the boom of the pregame outfits among athletes, both at college and professional levels. But why should this tradeoff have to exist when practicality is different for every individual?

I understand that tennis is tied more to culture and historical norms, but still — times have changed since the 1960s. Just as rules have evolved, it is not as if the players are wearing anything outright offensive — unless, of course, you are wearing orange soles at Wimbledon, apparently. Additionally, most of the standards are tied back to some pretty outdated thinking.

The all-white tradition at Wimbledon was implemented not only because white hid sweat better — because sweat was “improper” — but because during the Victorian era, players had to remain “incredibly proper.”

I suppose it does pay homage to the way tennis was traditionally created before lawn tennis, which is played as we know it: on asphalt, concrete or grass, played at the Louvre and Versailles by European monarchs. But, these aren’t private matches between global leaders in glass buildings anymore. People enjoy tennis for the swift power, passionate celebrations and culture that has bloomed as a result of such an incredible sport.

I’ve always believed you have to feel good to play good, and part of that is feeling that you look good. Now, the sport has become a hub of trend and beauty: a pushback against the sacrifice made of personal expression and fashion for dated regulations.

With glam teams, such as Julien Farel, who has been a stylist for the U.S. Open for 16 years and famously cut Rafael Nadal’s hair before his 2010 victory, brands have also been flocking to sponsor athletes: Emporio Armani, Alo, even individual designers, such as Virgil Abloh, who often made Williams’ looks.

I think part of the issue with moving on is that there is always a fear of forgetting the sport’s roots. This is completely valid, but we have to acknowledge that with the sport and athletes changing, sometimes tradition has to be tweaked and tweezed, too.

Who doesn’t love a good makeover, anyways?

Hadyn Phillips is a junior writing about fashion in the 21st century, specifically spotlighting new trends and popular controversy. Her column, “That’s Fashion, Sweetie,” runs every Wednesday.

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