The last few years have brought a resurgence of everything vintage. Digital cameras, low-rise jeans and Juicy Couture have skyrocketed in popularity. Along with these fun fashion and lifestyle trends, a cigarette renaissance has unfolded.

At any given late-night social event in college, one can typically spot a vast array of substances and devices being enjoyed by partygoers. Nicotine, in various forms, tends to make more than a few appearances.

Daily headlines, sent straight to your inbox.

Subscribe to our newsletter to keep up with the latest at and around USC.

Vapes and ZYN nicotine pouches are modern and interesting, with fresh flavors and new brands seemingly emerging daily. The appeal of these devices has long been explored and explained. 

It now seems, though, that cigarettes also have been making their way back into the hands and lungs of young people — maybe even more so than vapes. 

It’s relatively easy to grasp the appeal of vapes, with their eye-catching colors and fruity flavors. The claim that they are a healthier alternative to traditional smoking doesn’t hurt, either. 

Cigarettes, on the other hand, aren’t cute or colorful. They don’t smell good. And the research is crystal clear on the health risks, even with casual use. 

In my opinion, the nature of trends offers a compelling explanation for their resurgence.

Trends are cyclical. Take any trend from 2020, like cow print or oversaturated filters. In the beginning, they were cool and different. But as they gained popularity, they were driven into the ground. They became less and less new until, one day, they were officially uncool.

Similarly, vaping grew more and more popular and mainstream until it wasn’t as cool as before; people began to seek out something newer and edgier. Cigarettes became the rebellion. Many people had already been introduced to nicotine and smoking during the vaping era, so it wasn’t a big jump. In a way, vaping was the gateway drug to cigarette smoking.

Kate Stevenson, a freshman majoring in psychology as well as cognitive studies at Tulane University, said “[Vapes] were kind of the cool thing, but now people think of cigarettes as less gross and more as cool and vintage.”

Celebrities have played a role, too. Stars like Jenna Ortega, Lily-Rose Depp and Dua Lipa have all been pictured smoking in fashionable outfits, with some of them even posting pictures with a cigarette in hand. It’s an aesthetic that has inspired many other young people.

However, this vintage Y2K smoking aesthetic has very different implications from chunky belts and platform shoes. It’s not nearly as easily disposed of when the trend ends.

Many people excuse their smoking habits as “social smoking.” Erin Leonard, a senior majoring in sociology at Merrimack College, said “Nobody really smokes regularly that I know, but when we go out, I will see way more people smoking than I feel like I used to.” 

Susan Whitbourne, a professor emeritus of psychology at the University of Massachusetts Amherst, said to USA Today, “This slippery slope exists between social smoking and smoking, and because of the nature of addictions, it’s very hard to break one completely.” 

While social smoking is certainly a good alternative to heavy smoking, it is far from harmless. Light smoking increases the risk of heart disease, cancer, cataracts, respiratory tract infections and a list of other health issues. 

In addition to all these risks, people shouldn’t underestimate the prevalence or seriousness of addiction. According to a study from Penn State College of Medicine and Duke University, one quarter of those who smoke less than weekly were addicted to nicotine.

Social smoking can also lead to more frequent smoking, especially as cigarettes become more normalized. Lillian Castrillon, a freshman majoring in philosophy, politics and economics at Northeastern University, wrote, “One of my close friends started smoking as a thing to do at parties, but eventually it escalated to daily use. If my friend wasn’t introduced to it by the people around them at parties, they probably never would have started smoking.”

Of course, these trends and phenomena are different everywhere. Leonard, being from a small town and now attending college in another small town, said, “The only people I know that smoke cigarettes regularly are adults.” She did, however, note that when she was in Toronto, “A lot of people smoked cigarettes, even in college.”

Whether it’s the ethics of fast fashion or the dangers of cigarettes, trendiness can often blind consumers. Unfortunately, “cool” doesn’t always equate to safe, healthy or sustainable. So the next time you debate lighting one up, take a second to consider what’s driving your decision and how conscious you are of it.

Lusia Luo and Regan Mading contributed to this report.