DINING DOLLARS

Onigiri satisfies on-the-go snack cravings

Rice & Nori serves various hand-rolls, raw fish and finger foods.

By JASON PHAM
Rice & Nori is a fast-casual restaurant located in Little Tokyo and serves a variety of sushi, onigiri and hand-rolls. They offer various fillings to choose from when building an onigiri. (Jason Pham / Daily Trojan)

One of my favorite Los Angeles neighborhoods, and what I like to call my hunting grounds on a usual weekend night out, is Little Tokyo.

My love started with the Japanese Village Plaza, which houses an abundance of trendy shops and desserts, typically drawing in larger crowds and tourists for a vibrant atmosphere. From street vendors selling adorable pins and crocheted goods to the glorious amounts of local restaurants, there’s always something new to discover around every block of Little Tokyo.

However, while venturing out and exploring the neighborhood, I’ve found Weller Court to be the perfect spot for a quieter yet even more amusing and affordable experience. Lined with countless gift shops, small artist studios and a large bookstore, the shopping center is a frequent destination for me and heaven for those who appreciate Japanese media.

Scattered among the differing shops and storefronts sat a few hidden restaurants that piqued my interest, but I never had the occasion to stop by and try them. So, on a breezy summer night, and after some well-deserved retail therapy, a friend and I stopped by Rice & Nori for a bite to refuel our energy.

Located on the ground floor of Weller Court next to Marukai Market, Rice & Nori is a Japanese restaurant that serves an array of hand-rolls, sushi and portable eats. The business specializes in onigiri; a triangular-shaped ball of rice filled with protein or vegetables and wrapped in a sheet of nori.

Open from 9 p.m. to 11 a.m. daily, Rice & Nori imbues a fast-casual environment with self-seating and a walk-up order counter facing a mural of Under the Wave off Kanagawa.

The restaurant boasts a wide selection of delectable fresh proteins, from lobster and snow crab to flavorful veggies like its miso eggplant. The menu satisfies any eating style, featuring the onigiri for a more carb-heavy take or hand-rolls for more protein and mess-free dining. Most items are listed from $3 to $6 — competitive prices compared to other surrounding restaurants.

Aside from its signature menu, Rice & Nori sells clothes, pots and sprouts from BOZU Los Angeles, a local plant and pottery business. A stand of Asian candies and snacks is also on display next to the register for customers to purchase.

Once I got to the front of the line, I was excited to order and try the different onigiri fillings to see how they compared to one another. I ordered spam and egg onigiri as well as beef sukiyaki onigiri for two drastically different eating experiences.

The spam and egg onigiri was shaped more like a traditional musubi, featuring a rectangular brick of rice with spam and egg on top. The spam was flavorful yet terribly greasy and slick, completely disintegrating the nori. Unfortunately, the dish made for a messy and slippery beginning to our meal.

However, the beef sukiyaki onigiri quickly became a saving grace for our second course. The onigiri featured a jam-packed yet comforting beef filling that tasted as if it were dunked and stored in broth. Mixed with onions and encased in a crunchy nori sheet, the beef sukiyaki onigiri instantly became the highlight of my restaurant trip.

For our penultimate course, we went with Rice & Nori’s classic salmon hand-roll, which includes raw salmon and just a smidge of rice, all wrapped in a piece of nori. The fish quality was fresh and delivered a clean eating experience compared to the onigiri and the large crumbly rice balls. Although priced almost double as some onigiri, the hand-rolls feature high-quality seafood selections and raw fish for an elevated dining experience.

We wrapped up our restaurant exploration with its pineapple yuzu ice tea to wash down the grains of seaweed. With an intensely sweet and fruity base, my friend and I both agreed the drink could use carbonation or a lime kick to balance the flavors.

Although I’m glad to have ventured out and found a new eatery to come back to in my favorite part of Little Tokyo, I believe Rice & Nori serves best as a snack on the go or if you’re in the area and need a quick bite. Between the portable hand foods and high-quality proteins, Rice & Nori is worth a visit to find your own onigiri match.

But explore at your own risk, and I’d stay clear from the spam and egg onigiri.

Jason Pham is a rising senior writing about affordable eating and restaurants in his column, “Dining Dollars.”

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