Fashion week is the most exciting time of the year. Beyond seeing celebrities like Chappell Roan and Doechii tear up their outfits, collections have already begun hinting at the next wave of major trends. 

Especially with the popularity of shows from crowd favorites like Chloé and Givenchy, people forget that fashion week is also a strategic time to experiment and announce new beginnings. In my perspective, four major things happened within the last few weeks, each of which deserves its own article.

But, since fashion happens so quickly and seeps into all industries, I will dedicate this article to all four of them, starting out with the fresh face of the revived i-D magazine. The first edition under new Editor in Chief, Thom Bettridge, “The Unknown Issue” was the big comeback of the magazine after it announced a break in February 2024. On par with the theme of the issue, the magazine held an open casting call for the cover model, looking to give a fresh-faced hopeful a chance to break into the entertainment industry. 

Allow me to introduce Enza Khoury. The sole winner from 800 applicants, she is an 18-year-old model and actress from Ohio who hopes to attend the New School in the fall. Cast by Jennifer Venditti, the same casting director who selected Hunter Schafer for “Euphoria,” Khoury was chosen because Venditti said she embodied the American teenagers of today. 

Beyond gracing the cover of the magazine, an incredible article detailing her passions, family and beliefs accompanied the issue. From recollections of her talent on stage by friends in her theater program to Venditti’s boastful comments to discussions of political issues, Khoury represents the perfect balance of Anna Wintour’s vision for models, entertainers and visionaries in fashion publication. 

For those who don’t know, Wintour, the current editor in chief of American Vogue, has been controversial about having celebrities grace the covers of the magazine rather than only models, with her biggest risk being Madonna in a 1989 edition. 

Inspired by what she overheard a man say about the magazine, claiming that Vogue’s elegance was on par with that of Grace Kelly or Audrey Hepburn rather than a star like Madonna, Wintour felt compelled to create such a controversial cover. 

Another of the top four moments this week featured Wintour, who gave a rare standing ovation for Haider Ackermann’s first collection as the newest creative director of Tom Ford. Chosen by Ford himself after Ford’s longtime business partner and confidant, Peter Hawking, stepped down in 2024, the new collection was an incredibly well-balanced mix of loosely form-fitted silhouettes with a seductive, mature edge. 

With chic color pairings and a mature twist on classic shapes, Ackerman introduced a new era for the Ford name and an edgier take on timeless pieces. 

But Ford’s show competed for media attention, especially because of the boom of Dsquared2. As familiar faces like Amelia Gray, Naomi Campbell and NLE Choppa stomped down the runway, Doechii and JT themselves strutted down and closed the show with a live performance of their hit song, “Alter Ego.” 

Each outfit played with fantastical visions of western chic, fur coats and layers upon layers. The thoughtful details included in each garment came together to tell the story of the meaning behind the collection: the Dsquared2 anniversary show, appropriately placed in a New York night-scene backdrop. 

Simulating the outrageous experience of a wild night out in the city, Dsquared2 brought theater back to life on the runway as designers Dean and Dan Caten were taken out of a cop car by Dutch actress Brigitte Nielsen and handcuffed during their final bow. Excited to see Dsquared2’s name come back into mainstream circulation, I hope this buzz carries into a Diesel-like revival for the brand. 

Circling back to new beginnings, Louis Vuitton has capitalized on its fashion buzz to announce its decision to venture into beauty products, spearheaded by celebrity makeup artist Pat McGrath. Having worked backstage for Louis Vuitton runway collections in the past, McGrath went viral last year for her work on Maison Margiela’s 2024 couture show for the doll-like glass skin on the models. 

Ironically, though, McGrath’s own collection seems to be struggling. With internal struggles in the company between former employers and a series of layoffs in 2024, McGrath needs a win for the sake of her name. While I have no doubt that her product will be a huge success for both her and Louis Vuitton, it may be a good chance for her to redeem herself after the recent slew of bad press regarding her brand. 

This season, the key takeaway is that beginnings are in. With the sun coming back out and the warmth of spring break seeping in, I can’t help but think about all the fun “what ifs” that will happen in the future. My mantra has been closely tied to Addison Rae’s “Aquamarine”: “The world is my oyster / And I’m the only girl.” Maybe the world can be your oyster, too. 

Hadyn Phillips is a senior writing about fashion in the 21st century, spotlighting new trends and popular controversy in her column, “That’s Fashion, Sweetie,” which runs every Wednesday.