DINING DOLLARS

Dim sum sells for cents

Won Kok Restaurant serves bite-sized meals at a steal of a price.

By JASON PHAM
Won Kok Restaurant provides Cantonese dim sum items, such as har gow, shu mai and chicken buns, usually priced per piece. (Jason Pham / Daily Trojan)

My passion for dumplings and dim sum has been a rocky rollercoaster since I first arrived in Los Angeles. From upscale prices like Paradise Dynasty to even local chains like Mama Lu’s Dumpling House, the combination of affordability, taste and dining comfort is difficult to master all in one restaurant. Having grown up frequenting mom-and-pop dim sum shops with special bundle pricing and handwritten menus, I hold high expectations for dumplings as a holistic eating experience.

Yet after leaving the comfort of my hometown and exploring L.A. for the last three years, I haven’t been able to find a regular dim sum spot that satisfies my dumpling cravings in an affordable and tasty way.

On a chilly Friday night, hankering a taste of my favorite comfort food, I set my sights on Chinatown to seek out a dim sum spot that reminds me of home. Deciding between the abundance of small dumpling shops in the area, my boyfriend and I compared Yelp reviews before eventually heading toward our pick of the night, Won Kok Restaurant.

As the rain slightly drizzled and the dinner crowd was wrapping up, street parking was abundant and open when we arrived at 7 p.m. The bright neon red letters and yellow sign cast a warm hue on the customers waiting in line.

The restaurant featured a to-go window from the outside framed by a bright red awning and a line of customers. Some patrons ordered on the inside which included an intimate dining area and checkout counter that maintained the casual mom-and-pop atmosphere I sought out.

Won Kok is a Cantonese restaurant open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, serving a variety of savory snacks like buns, dumplings and chicken sticky rice to sweet treats like egg custard and sponge cake. However, what stays consistent throughout their expansive menu is their enticingly cheap prices that are difficult to find practically anywhere else in L.A.

Posted on a big whiteboard on the to-go window, everything on the menu is priced under $5, with individual pieces of shu mai listed as low as 90 cents — sales tax included in the price.

Starstruck by the numbers, I ordered up half of the menu to satisfy my famished stomach. My equally hungry mind spiraled with questions of what to expect from such cheap eats. The employee inside jotted down my order faster than I could follow, quickly sending it off to another person and directing me to the side all in one fell swoop.

After a short few minutes, the employee came back with a mountain of white Styrofoam boxes bursting to their brims with the warm scent of shrimp and pork seeping from the containers.

From the har gow to the chicken bun with sausage and egg, each item was fresh and outlined the takeout boxes with steam.

Once we secured the goods, my boyfriend and I scurried home to enjoy the meal over our favorite show, “Community.” The whole process in total from parking to ordering and picking up the food took only 40 minutes, which was relatively fast in my opinion, partly thanks to the convenience of the walk-up window.

Won Kok’s variety of hand foods made it easy for us to watch over a meal. As my teeth sank into the soft sweet bun and met with the savory yet complex filling on the inside, I instantly felt a sense of nostalgia and reconnected with a taste of what I grew up around.

The shu mai felt very thick but was extremely juicy and had a mellow yet savory taste. In contrast, the har gow was a bit more crumbly but the combination of the dumpling wrapper and steamed shrimp filling delivered a smooth texture and flavor. Both were massive in size and larger than what most other L.A. restaurants offer.

Although the taste and ingredient quality were not as top-notch as more upscale dumpling restaurants, Won Kok delivered a welcoming environment and authentic flavors that continue to provide Cantonese cuisines to the Chinatown community.

Considering their extremely affordable pricing and fast service, Won Kok is the perfect blend of flavor, casual comfort and accessibility that has not only become a staple for me but also a gold mine for college students who need a quick bite for under a dollar.

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