Koreatown gastropub offers a variety of craft beers

Skimming through the Yelp reviews for Beer Belly, a gastropub in Koreatown, a person can find some truly unique experiences from guests who are nearby. Waitresses who tip themselves extra without telling customers, drunken arguments between staff members and saucy, unapologetic owners — these are just some of the allegations that one can read about skimming through the reviews that give lower rankings. But, the establishment in total has four out of five stars on the site, leaving its true quality up for determination.

Beer Belly is a well-hidden restaurant located on the crossroads of 6th Street and Western Avenue, snugly tucked behind the I Love Boba that dominates the storefront. Metered parking is available on the streets or in the adjacent lot.

The restaurant serves a fine selection of craft beers that changes according to seasonal availability as well as an experimental menu that includes such fare as duck fat fries, pork belly chips, deep-fried Oreos and the infamous “Death by Duck,” duck fat fries sprinkled with duck skin cracklins and duck confit.

The unique menu is the brainchild of Beer Belly’s Philly-raised head chef Wes Lieberher, a former musician who quit the scene after developing tinnitus (ringing in the ears) but not before nearly throwing himself off a building in a hallucinatory state following three weeks of constant ringing in his ears. On his personal website, Lieberher credits cooking with saving his life and helping him detach from the music scene.

Lieberher’s carefree rock background is evident in the calorie count of many of the items on the menu — in the dessert section, four out of five menu options are deep fried.

Upon arrival, it is impossible not to notice the colorful street art that covers the building – a rainbow explosion of swirls that wrap around the kitchen and into the outdoor eating area. Large signs labeled “DRINK” and “PARK” stand as humorous directional guides for patrons.

The actual restaurant,  however, is much more conservatively laid out, with the most color coming from the hostess who rocked a multi-colored hairstyle and had the bubbly personality and high-pitched tone of Cyndi Lauper.

The patrons, whom Yelp reviewers mostly referred to as “hipster,” actually appear to be a diverse range of characters — from edgy fashionistas to preppies to elderly couples.

The bartenders are friendly and personable, eager to share their knowledge of craft beers and suggestions for food. The service in general was quick, efficient and polite. Unlike the punk rock, anti-establishment aesthetic painted by some Yelp reviewers, the service was pretty much what could be expected from a well-reviewed restaurant.

One of the most popular items at Beer Belly is the Beer Belly Grilled Cheese, described as a quad-deck 4×4 of cheddar, Asiago, Gruyere, goat cheese and applewood-smoked bacon drizzled in maple syrup. The sandwich costs a hefty $12 but proves to be a filling item to the point that a patron might fall into a food coma if not careful.

The sandwich arrived within 10 minutes on a wooden serving platter and appeared to be incredibly small and reeking of maple syrup; however, upon the first bite it proved to be more than initially met the eye. The bread was flaky and sweet, like a real French croissant, and made a delicious crunch. The saltiness of the bacon somehow mixes perfectly with the sweet taste of the syrup, which recalls a memory of a teacher who once said, “You don’t mix sweet and meat.” Beer Belly has definitely proven that wrong.

Beer Belly is not known for its health-conscious offerings, however, and it’s only a matter of time before the heaviness associated with unhealthy food sinks in. Patrons less accustomed to such substantial fare might find themselves forcing down the second half of the sandwich or packing it to go. For those who finish it, the ride home might seem like an eternity to get back to their beds for a long, Belly-fueled nap.