Taqueria Revolutionario fuses African flavors in tacos
An overabundance of modern American restaurants can be found along the USC perimeter and in the immediate area. Students typically venture outside the campus area to experience a taste of the diverse dining options Los Angeles has to offer. Just a few blocks west of campus is Revolutionario, a treasure trove of Latin American-influenced North African cuisine that’s not only delicious, but also affordable and healthy.
Originally a pop-up stand in Koreatown that gained an enthusiastic following, Revolutionario is headed by Susan Park and Farid Zadi, who opened the restaurant near the corner of Jefferson Boulevard and Normandie Avenue. The restaurant offer a range of food from tacos and burritos with homemade tortillas cradling North African fillings to ceviches with Japanese-Peruvian influence. The place is sparsely decorated, with the exterior-facing window asking people to “Join The Food Revolution” and the interior walls scattered with humorous printouts of famous world leaders stating their support of tacos.
Zadi welcomes customers to his family’s restaurant as if it were his own home. Formerly a chef consultant and culinary instructor, he has a friendly personality and also knows how to cook up a fusion storm. Park, who has a background in the hospitality and food industry, found the space on Craigslist and followed her gut, knowing that the location would be a draw for diners and locals wanting delicious, affordable food. Their spot in Exposition Park attracts the diverse community surrounding USC. Revolutionario is a global experience, from entrance to the restaurant to a belly-filled bliss. Among the most popular items at this North African taqueria are the tacos, filled with meats and vegetables seasoned with numerous spices and rubs from around the world.
For the protein addicts, at Revolutionario the meat-to-tortilla ratio is enormous and will keep customers satisfied. Their smoked lamb is rubbed with a North African spice mixture and red harissa, a hot chili pepper paste. Smoked for four to six hours to deliver a heavily tenderized meat, the lamb avoids being spicy and packs a savory punch. Another favorite meat choice is the beef barbacoa. Like all of Revolutionario’s meats, this taco is a juicy bite marinated in tomatillo salsa and chermoula, a North African cilantro pesto. Despite the heat that continues to defy the fall season, the restaurant offers a goat and pumpkin tagine for the fall and winter. Goat, commonly used in North African cooking, is slightly sweet by nature, so they complement that with the sweetness of the pumpkin braise. Adding a bit of chili powder to provide a spicy and sweet balance, the combination goes hand in hand, and better yet, hand to mouth in traditional taco style.
The vegetarian options are also popular among both meat-eaters and vegetarians. Park explained that their falafel taco is a riff on the West African black eyed pea fritter akara, a mixture of black eyed peas, chickpeas and red beans married with cilantro, parsley, garlic, onions and an African spice mixture. The falafel is perfectly crisped on the outside, giving way to a light and creamy interior. Keeping the falafel airy and balanced with moisture, this lends itself well to a texturally pleasing and delectable taco. The cauliflower is seasoned with the restaurant’s North African spice mix and cooked until it has just enough bite to provide substance while still maintaining a tender texture that sits well in the tortilla. Claiming it is the North African version of huevos rancheros, Park explains the shakshouka is made with sweet peppers, tomatoes and onions with an egg scrambled in. Though breakfast-like in concept, this dish is perfect for any time of day.
The garnishes to put atop the tacos are another way Revolutionario globalizes its menu. The kimchi curtido blends Asian, African and Latin American influences to create this spicy pickled cabbage topping. North African cuisine favors pickling, and their pickled radish is no stranger to their restaurant. Both garnishes offer the perfect bright contrast to the savory meats and vegetables, creating a perfect balance for these dishes.
As far as the name of the place goes, Park and Zadi have a passion for a food revolution.
“For all the food abundance in America, there is not a lot of good food at the lower cost point. People can get a nutritionally complete, delicious meal made under $10 here,” Park said. “Everybody needs affordable, delicious food.”
Priding themselves on being the first chef-driven fast food restaurant, this family is in the business of change. With the variety here and a price point to make a wallet sing, Revolutionario is for anyone wanting unbeatably delicious food.