Craft beer comes to City of Angels

By Sarah Bennett · Daily Trojan

Posted September 15, 2010 at 12:05 am in Columns, Lifestyle

1 Star2 Stars3 Stars4 Stars5 Stars (Votes: 2; Avg: 5.00)
Loading ... Loading ...

If cities were alcoholic beverages, Los Angeles would be a mix of vodka and Red Bull — a potent dose of liquor hidden beneath the sugary-sweet sheen of a counterintuitive energy boost.

San Diego, just a few hours south, would be defined by its main boozy creation, one rooted in a working-class ethic that has been around millenniums longer than Red Bull’s wing-giving jolt: hand-crafted beer.

As far back as Ancient Egypt, humans have been fermenting grains to make alcoholic beer-like beverages and yet recipes are still constantly in flux.

After centuries of Belgian and German brewing traditions dominating world consumption, beer-lovers have recently been looking to the United States for guidance on how to push the boundaries of the craft.

This concept might seem weird for anyone who thinks of the ultra-yellow macro brews Budweiser and Miller Light as “traditional” American beers. But those willing to look beyond the 7-Eleven beer cooler will easily find that new availability of ingredients and the exploration of non-traditional brewing methods have made the last few decades some of the most innovative in beer history, with small-batch craft breweries slowly creeping into the mainstream breweries’ market share.

This feat is most surprising in the United States, where Prohibition eliminated our flourishing dark-beer culture and replaced it with watered-down, rice-infused drinks that maximized bootleggers’ profits but ruined our craving for craftsmanship.

Cities such as Portland, Ore., Denver and the aforementioned San Diego have been cultivating this return to experimentalism, primarily because of their blue-collar history and emerging DIY identity.

A shift is in progress in Los Angeles — a metropolis once better known for its Hollywood-fueled liquor scene than its young-but-earnest community of beer geeks. The last two years have seen the city’s appreciation for craft beer grow exponentially as a surge of gastropubs, alehouses, breweries and taverns have opened up from the Valley to the Westside to Downtown, joining the few stalwart beer institutions such as Father’s Office in Santa Monica and Lucky Baldwin’s in Pasadena.

This first round of new businesses — most of which opened during 2008 — led distant, car-fueled residents to neighborhood meeting points and slowly introduced our bland, mostly mainstream beer tastes to the multi-faceted world of hand-crafted beer.

In the last few months, however, another set of beer-centric establishments have opened across the city, taking advantage of L.A.’s newfound sense of exploration and widening the city’s beer horizons even more.

Pushing the gastropub concept another step toward the specialty bar, new hangouts such as West Hollywood’s Surly Goat, Burbank’s Tony’s Darts Away, Venice Beach’s Venice Ale House and Long Beach’s Congregation Ale House (full disclosure: I work there) are scaling down the food menu and offering a wider berth of more unique beers than ever.

The idea — Eagle Rock Brewery co-founder Jeremy Raub told the Los Angeles Times when he opened the brewery’s tasting room two years ago — is to “inspire Angelenos to dig themselves out of the domestic beer rut and dive into the wide world of craft brewing.”

To do this, the city’s alcohol consumers don’t necessarily have to swear off tall boys of Pabst Blue Ribbon, but instead alter their ideas of drinking in general. Long used in Los Angeles — especially by the city’s college students — as a way to encourage a party atmosphere, beer has the ability to be so much more.

If we stop drinking weak, urine-colored beer as a means to an end and start dabbling in more uncommon styles such as Saisons, Dopple Weizens and imperial red ales, beer becomes less about getting drunk as quickly as possible and more about appreciating taste and quality the way you would a fine wine.

Like many things in Los Angeles, however, this emerging beer scene has not been created autonomously. Because three of beer’s main four ingredients — malted barley, yeast and hops — cannot be grown in Southern California, local brewers are mostly reliant on out-of-state ingredients, many of which are available to brave home brewers through supply stores throughout town.

More importantly, because the city’s beer identity is still forming, Los Angeles does not yet have a hometown style.

Belgian, British and German beer styles are all international staples — think Hefenweizen, porters and golden ales — and even certain beer-producing cities in the states have gained recognition for their local brews (such as San Diego’s complex, ultra-bitter imperial IPAs and the Pacific Northwest’s emerging beer style, Cascade Dark Ale). But both brewers and outlets in Los Angeles have thus far been confined to recognizable tastes, no doubt in an effort to appeal to the majority of the city that has yet to acquire a palette for craft beer.

The new flock of bars sprouting up across the Greater Los Angeles area, however, is providing the crucial next step for those who envision this city as a diverse craft beer town.

With the focus of many of these restaurants and bars not on the gluttonous aspect of consuming beer, young brewmasters and bartenders are able to offer a range of local and international microbrews, many meant for sipping in specially branded glasses, not for chugging through a funnel attached to a hose.

There will always be a place in Los Angeles nightlife for vodka-Red Bulls and tall-can specials, but with the promising roots of good beer craftsmanship already making themselves manifest in this sprawling metropolis, it just doesn’t seem fair to subject your liver to the liquor-fueled decadence of yore.

Sarah Bennett is a senior majoring in communication. Her column, “Fake Bad Taste,” runs Wednesdays.

2 Comments on “Craft beer comes to City of Angels”

  1. los angeles+ craft beer = finally! « FakeBadTaste

    [...] …read the rest here Posted by fakebadtaste Filed in Uncategorized ·Tags: brewers, congregation ale house, craft beer, festival, los angeles, specialty beer, trends Leave a Comment » [...]

  2. los angeles + craft beer = finally « thesarahbennett

    [...] …read the rest here [...]

More News

2012 USG Elections Coverage

Daily Trojan Poll

The baseball team is off to a 4-0 start for the first time since 2005. How do you think the team will fare overall this season?

View Results

Loading ... Loading ...

Archives

Browse Archives

News

Redistricting proposed along campus border

The City of Los Angeles Redistricting Commission held its final meeting on redistricting, which could result in parts of USC being represented in two districts, ...

Podcast: Q&A with Mikey Geragos and Vinnie Prasad

News editor Rachel Bracker sits down with Mikey Geragos and Vinnie Prasad, winners of the USG presidential election, to talk about their plans for next ...

Professor discusses role of religion in 2012 election

David Campbell, an associate professor of political science at the University of Notre Dame and co-author of American Grace: How Religion Divides and Unites Us, ...

Roundup

The following incidents were reported in the USC Dept. of Public Safety daily incident report log between Saturday, Feb. 18, and Monday, Feb. 20.View Roundup ...

Geragos, Prasad win USG presidential race

Students elected Mikey Geragos and Vinnie Prasad to serve as Undergraduate Student Government president and vice president, respectively, in the 2012-2013 school year.[caption id="attachment_45734" align="alignright" ...

Lincoln Reading Room features rare artifacts

With the exception of law students, not many Trojans venture inside the USC Gould School of Law Library, but those who have might know about ...

Opinion

Students definitely don’t overuse sarcasm

Students definitely don’t overuse sarcasm

Technically speaking, sarcasm isn’t a word that ends in ‘-ism.’ I realize readers care deeply about my adherence to my column’s theme. Please forgive me. ...

Career fair overlooks liberal arts

What are you going to do after college? For many of us, this is the most anxiety-inducing question we could ever be asked by our ...

Caltrans to blame for traffic disaster

USC students are no strangers to traffic. We live in the middle of Los Angeles, within short distance of two major freeways; traffic is almost ...

Los Angeles should not redraw District 9

Last week, I ventured into South Central for the first time in my two years at USC. Prompted by glowing Yelp reviews and a hefty ...

Should all employers cover contraceptives?

As a volunteer health teacher in public high schools, I spend a lot of time telling ninth-grade girls how the government makes it easy for ...

Should all employers cover contraceptives?

It seems that February has been the month of contraceptive controversy in the United States. In addition to the Susan G. Komen debacle, heated arguments ...

Sports

No. 2 USC faces No. 6 Hawai’i in MPSF battle

After playing their first eight matches at neutral sites, the Women of Troy finally get to show what they can do in their home pool.No. ...

Women of Troy begin five-game homestand

After a strong showing at the Intercollegiate Tennis Assocation Indoor National Championships, including USC’s first semifinal appearance since 2003, the Women of Troy begin a ...

Trojan snow sports set sights on national title

Seven years ago, after being kicked off campus, the Ski and Snowboard Team was reinstated on campus. At the time, they were a small group ...

Trojans annually dominate NFL draft

Tailback U? USC should probably call itself NFL U. It might actually be more accurate.The NFL’s annual scouting combine began Tuesday in Indianapolis, where the ...

Women of Troy making late tournament push

It might sound premature to say that the Women of Troy are on a roll after winning two games in a row, but given the ...

Lifestyle

Design school celebrates creative forces behind film

Design school celebrates creative forces behind film

The Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibit at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising is nothing new. In fact, the school’s museum, located ...

Cultural stigmas limit comic book audience

When people think of comics, most unfortunately hold very dated and cliché views of the medium. That’s why so many articles and superhero movie reviews ...

Haute Highlights

Eat Your Art Out VTitmouse, Inc.Saturday Feb. 25, 7-11 p.m.Roller derby and a 1920s carnival — enough said.This thrilling combo will become your reality should ...

Professor dishes on this year’s Oscars

It’s only a couple days before the 84th Annual Academy Awards, which means another rush of last-minute speculation about who those iconic golden statues will ...

LA dining classics impress visitors

In the cozy microcosm of Los Angeles that is USC, one can easily forget how big this city is.Sometimes, it takes the arrival of friends ...

Photos

This Week in Photos: Feb. 13 – Feb. 17

This Week in Photos: Feb. 13 – Feb. 17

“This Week in Photos” highlights the biggest stories of the week.Longoria discusses philanthropy, race>>[caption id="attachment_45515" align="aligncenter" width="630" caption="Philanthropy · Actress Eva Longoria spoke Saturday night ...

This Week in Photos: Feb. 6 – Feb. 10

“This Week in Photos” highlights the biggest stories of the week.Dental school provides free care for local children>>[caption id="attachment_45099" align="aligncenter" width="630" caption="Mouth check · Geraldine ...

Slideshow: St. Vincent de Paul Catholic Church

This year, the nearby St. Vincent de Paul Catholic Church parish celebrates its 125th anniversary. St. Vincent de Paul, located on Figueroa Street and Adams ...

This Week in Photos: Jan. 30 – Feb. 3

"This Week in Photos" highlights the biggest stories of the week.Trojans upend Utah to end losing streak>>[caption id="attachment_44062" align="aligncenter" width="614" caption="Worth the wait · Sophomore ...

Slideshow: Spring Awakening

Selling out just 36 hours after reservations opened, Cardinal Theatre Productions’ presentation of the rock musical Spring Awakening had to meet some pretty big expectations. ...