Matzo is more than just Jewish flatbread

By Bernard Leed · Daily Trojan

Posted April 3, 2012 at 10:12 pm in Columns, Lifestyle

The appeal of unleavened bread might be limited. At least that’s how the food would sound to anyone unfamiliar with the thin, cracker-like matzo, a Jewish dietary staple that makes a resurgence with the arrival of Passover this time of year.

The common explanation for matzo’s origins is that Israelites had little time to flee Egypt during their Biblical exodus, resulting in bread that had to be flattened and quickly baked. Matzo is thereby eaten as a form of symbolic remembrance at Passover.

But for those of you not observing the holiday, or who choose not to keep kosher, the question becomes this: If you don’t have to eat matzo, why eat it?

Answer? The crunch. The wide surface that takes well to spreads. The random bits of baked flavor. These are reasons to embrace matzo.

Another vital reason is its versatility.

Bon Appétit, The New York Times and Martha Stewart Living have all recommended ways to diversify the Seder, the traditional Passover meal. And all have provided funky new recipes introducing flavors like rosemary and olive oil to toasted matzo.

Then there are matzo balls. I’ve written previously about The Gorbals’ bacon-wrapped matzo balls and Lukshon’s silky, Asian-inflected matzo ball soup. The writer-historian Marcie Cohen Ferris even wrote the definitive book on Jewish Southern food, Matzoh Ball Gumbo. The title recipe incorporates a spicy Creole seasoning into the matzo balls — just another example of how easy it is to improvise, personalize and regionalize a recipe.

But for the traditionalist, the standby matzo recipes still hold strong. However, you must keep in mind that the best matzo — crumbly and buttery with dark, popped bubbles throughout — is prepackaged.

There are plenty of ways to try matzo, both new and old: An open-faced matzo sandwich is like having a bread’s crust without the doughy center. And for those that prefer this crunch, matzo becomes a worthy substitute.

Spreading some grainy mustard on a piece and topping it with some slices of pastrami and a pickled tomato is the stuff of deli dreams.

Keep in mind that Langer’s Delicatessen has the best pastrami, a widely acknowledged fact cemented by a prestigious James Beard award. Langer’s is only three miles from campus, a distance justified as walkable if you’ve ever tasted its “Number 19” sandwich, which flaunts hot slices of pastrami piled high with slaw, cheese and Russian dressing.

Another favorite is Hershey’s-dipped matzo, in which pieces of the unleavened bread are dipped in melted chocolate and left in the freezer until ready for consumption.

The combination of the two flavors, along with the once-a-year joy of matzo and the childhood memories of a melted Hershey’s bar, provides the teary-eyed, first-bite delight only the most special foods inspire.

Matzo often serves as a substitute for other ingredients, too.

Oats fall into a kosher gray area, so if you have the matzo, you might as well do good with it. Matzo granola is a cinch to make, and it tastes better toasted in a skillet than baked in an oven, as granola typically is. Here’s how to make it:

1. Lather a square of matzo with canola oil, sprinkle lightly with salt and generously with sugar and cinnamon.

2. Break over a hot skillet and let cook at medium heat until the sugar has glazed the matzo, and the edges of many pieces turn black, roughly four to six minutes.

3. To finish, add some chopped cinnamon almonds, like those available at Fresh & Easy and some golden raisins.

Finally, there’s matzo brei. Matzo brei gives texture to eggs and a pleasant dampness to matzo, creating a sort of free-form French toast. The recipe — my family’s — is as follows:

1. Break three squares of matzo into uneven, bite-size pieces and soak in warm water for about one minute until wet but not saturated.

2. Take matzo out of water and drain in colander to get the excess moisture out.

3. Mix four eggs in a bowl with a splash of milk until frothy.

4. Add matzo to egg mixture — mix well but carefully, as to not break up the matzo.

5. Heat skillet on medium heat with a dab of butter, enough to coat the bottom of the pan.

6. Add egg/matzo mixture and cook until tender, about four and a half to five minutes, or until desired doneness. You can treat the mixture much like scrambled eggs.

7. Season with salt and sugar or a cinnamon-sugar combination. A side of applesauce is also recommended.

Though using just egg whites is a healthier alternative than including the yolk, the matzo brei will lack significantly in flavor. Texture is important too — the dish is about the doneness of the matzo and wetness of the eggs. You should be appreciating chewiness in one bite, and savoring crisp, burnt pieces the next.

There’s always Langer’s, Nate ‘n Al’s, Canter’s or Barney Greengrass to get your matzo-dish fix too. But when it comes to this kind of comforting Jewish soul food, your own efforts in the kitchen should suffice.

 

Bernard Leed is a junior majoring in narrative studies. His column “Amuse-Bouche” runs Wednesdays.


One Comment on “Matzo is more than just Jewish flatbread”

  1. robertzfields

    The “Official Samples” is the best place on the web to get free sample offers. The process is quick and easy. I received my free sample health products in no time.

More News

  Daily Trojan Spring Awakening Supplement

Blogs

Daily Trojan Poll

Which headliner did you enjoy most at Springfest?

View Results

Loading ... Loading ...

Archives

April 2012
S M T W T F S
« Mar   May »
1234567
891011121314
15161718192021
22232425262728
2930  

Browse Archives

News

Dr. Dre, Iovine give $70 mil for new academy

A new type of undergraduate experience will be added to the university as music icons Jimmy Iovine and Dr. Dre are together giving $70 million ...

UPDATE: LAPD, DPS hold open forum for students

Video from the scene, courtesy of USC Black Student Assembly.   Students, alumni, faculty and community members voiced their concerns at an emotional open forum between the ...

Students hold sit-in in response to LAPD presence at party

[gallery link="file" ids="67092,67091,67090,67089,67088,67087,67086,67085,67084"] Photos by Razan Al Marzouqi   More than 100 students gathered in front of Tommy Trojan for a sit-in Monday afternoon in response to events ...

Opinion

Syrian conflict explodes

On May 16, President Barack Obama told the public about evidence that shows chemical weapons being used in the ongoing Syrian crisis, according to BBC ...

Extra-curriculars, internships as important as grades

As summertime rolls around and the sun and ocean begin to beckon eager pupils, one last roadblock stands in the way of true vacation bliss: ...

’SC sets example in lowering dropout rate

A report sponsored by the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation reveals that the nation’s higher education system is facing a dropout crisis. Produced in part ...

Sports

Women of Troy fall in the round of 16

With a 15-match winning streak against the Cardinal and after bouncing the team from the NCAA quarterfinals last season, the No. 5 USC women’s tennis ...

Trojans can’t pull off unprecedented ‘5-peat’

An outstanding four-year championship run ended for the USC men’s tennis program on Saturday, May 18, in Urbana, Ill., as the No. 4 Trojans were ...

USC suffers sweep to rival UCLA

When USC and UCLA took the field this weekend for their annual three-game clash, it was hard to envision two more different teams and programs. ...

Lifestyle

Daft Punk transcends genre in RAM

After eight long years, the eccentric French electronic music duo Daft Punk is re-entering the electronic music fray. Their new album, Random Access Memories, was ...

Midnight builds on strengths of preceding films

Movie trilogies have a bit of a reputation for being films that rely heavily on action and excitement. They’re usually big money earners, which is ...

An Exercise in Authenticity

Though Generation Um
includes a star studded cast—Keanu Reeves, Bojana Novakovic, and Adelaide Clemens—this film surprisingly has more of an indie vibe.  Set in New York ...

Photos

In Photos: Washington comes to USC

In Photos: Washington comes to USC

The Schwarzenegger Institute held an immigration reform forum titled "Washington comes to USC", with U.S Senators John McCain, Michael Bennet and former President of Mexico ...

In Photos: Armenian Genocide

Photos by Ani Kolangian [gallery link="file" ids="66554,66555,66556,66557,66558,66559,66560,66561,66562"]

In Photos: Springfest 2013

Photos by Priyanka Patel. [gallery link="file" ids="65587,65586,65585,65584,65583,65582,65581,65580,65579,65578,65577,65576"]