Cassell’s impresses with old-fashioned burger taste
Cassell’s Hamburgers reopened a few blocks down from the original location on 6th Street, and patrons are eager to welcome the restaurant back.
Since its original establishment in 1948, the burger stand founded by Al Cassell has been a popular spot for patrons who enjoy classic and quality American burgers served at a relaxed, diner-like setting. Now, a few years after its closing, Christian Page, a former chef at Short Order, brought the restaurant back on the ground floor of Hotel Normandie in Koreatown. Paying homage to Cassell and his original stand, burgers at the new Cassell’s Hamburgers are, according to the restaurant’s website, “cooked on Al Cassell’s famous original crossfire broiler, ground with the original grinder, and pattied with the original press.” The new Cassell’s has some additions, such as house-made sodas, a bar and a classic ’50s breakfast option.
Cassell’s is a short, convenient 15-minute drive for USC students. The interior of the restaurant creates a laid-back, retro and hipster atmosphere. The lifted ceiling, large windows and clean white walls combine for a modern, cafe-like feel. By contrast, the old signage, menu boards and wooden tables and chairs transport customers to a typical ’50s diner ambience. Staying true to the classic diner-style food, side dishes are served on a silver tray with a piece of red and white paper wrapped around. The mix of modern decor and retro elements enable customers to experience quality burgers in a relaxing and novel environment.
As Page told the Los Angeles Times, the new Cassell’s is “not chef-centered.” According to Page, “If anyone is the chef here, it’s Al Cassell and the spirit of him. Just doing our best to do things the way he would.”
And how would Al Cassell do it? A classic, American burger with simple ingredients — and most importantly, no french fries.
The cheeseburger comes with a beef patty, the choice of either Swiss or cheddar cheese, lettuce, fresh onions, a piece of tomato, pickles and Thousand Island dressing. Aside from the patty and the cheese, all ingredients are served on the side. Bacon and a fried egg can be added to the burger for $2.50 and $1.50, respectively. For customers who want extra meat, the burger is offered in a larger size with 2/3⅔pounds instead of 1/3.
The patty, which is cooked medium, is perfectly juicy on the inside and seared crispy on the outside. Thanks to the chef’s insistence on staying true to the original Cassell’s burger, the beef patty tastes fresh and savory. It has the quality of a gourmet burger but the diner price of $11.99. For customers who prefer their meat well done, medium-well is a good option. The burger comes with a lot of lettuce — so much that you could make a lettuce wrap and omit the bun to save calories. The generous portion of lettuce definitely helps neutralize the greasy taste of the patty. The Thousand Island dressing on the side is tangy and mustard-like. The bacon, though too salty, is chewy and not overly greasy. Overall, the cheeseburger is classic American-style and very delicious — no big surprises.
Instead of french fries, the burgers and sandwiches come with the choice among a few small side dishes, including homemade potato chips, Thousand Island dressing, potato salad, coleslaw and pasta salad. Though it can be a little disappointing not to have fries with a burger, these side dishes are good without being too heavy. The pasta salad and the coleslaw are good, but not particularly special. The potato salad, though, with a small amount of mayonnaise and some spicy mustard, is delicious and popular.
As for drinks, the old-fashioned lemonade goes pretty well with the burger. It’s neither too sweet, nor too sour. The cream house soda, however, has a strange taste. It has an Oreo-like sweetness that doesn’t complement the bubbly soda. For those who would like a more traditional burger-joint drink, the shakes and malts are definitely worth a try. Cassell’s also offers freshly baked desserts such as custards and pies.
The pricing of menu items is fairly reasonable, as the burgers and sandwiches are no more than what one would pay for at a diner. The quality of the food and the friendly atmosphere make it more than just a dining experience. Page has done a great job bringing back the classic L.A. burger joint with some additions to the old menu. Next time you’re around Koreatown, take a trip back in time at Cassell’s by treating yourself to a good old cheeseburger with a delicious side of potato salad.