Mexican fusion cuisine found at new DTLA restaurant
Petty Cash, an acclaimed taqueria, has recently established its second location in the heart of downtown Los Angeles’s Arts District. Nestled in an unassuming brick building, it is an expansive space complete with bright colors, wooden furniture and dangling string lights.
Upon walking in, patrons have a full view into head chef David Chavez’s kitchen, a privilege for foodies everywhere. After training at Le Cordon Bleu in Austin, Texas, Chavez ran Bouchon Bakery in New York and, in 2013, was promoted to executive sous chef of Bouchon Beverly Hills. While working as head chef of The Kitchen in Sacramento, he was approached by Petty Cash owner and chef Walter Manzke to partner as chef de cuisine at the new location. The duo is committed to maintaining Manzke’s seasonable and sustainable approach to eating with vibrant local produce, fish and ingredients.
Growing up in San Diego, Manzke often crossed the California border to Tijuana for cheap tacos and a fun music scene. Such was the inspiration for Petty Cash. His vision became reality upon collaboration with renowned restaurateur Bill Chait of Sprout LA. The restaurant combines classic Mexican street food with high-end ingredients in a graffiti-painted space named after rockers Tom Petty and Johnny Cash. This eclectic mixture of elements allows for a unique dining experience before the food has even touched the communal tables.
When food does come, though, customers immediately recognize the differences from traditional taqueria fare. This begins with the “bomb.com,” a delicious housemade sea urchin guacamole accompanied by a cone of chicharrones. The puffy, crackling fried pig skins complement the fresh flavor of Polito Farms avocados, which are delivered to the restaurant daily. Additionally, ensalada de frutas con chile is offered as a seasonal appetizer. The crisp fruits are truly refreshing and have a spicy kick from toasted and ground chiles.
Chavez, again, shows off his affinity for balancing flavors with an impeccable assortment of ceviche dishes. Sushi-style tuna paired with avocado, cucumber and lime juice creates a light yet flavorful sensation. The lean fish is used intentionally with a healthy fat for contrast. However, in another dish, a heartier hamachi is used with in-season grapes, pepitas and poblano peppers for eye-watering spice. Petty Cash’s quesadillas are also a popular family style item. For example, the “Gringa Style” quesadilla is a decadent twist on the simple combination of cheese and tortilla. It incorporates tender adobe chile-rubbed pork shoulder, and melty jack cheese and is topped with avocado crema.
And finally, there are the tacos. Ordered a la carte, they can come all together on a platter or separate like a tasting menu. Do not underestimate their small size as each packs a substantial punch of flavor on a handmade tortilla that is pressed to order. Specifically, the charcoal-grilled octopus taco combines chewy, smoky octopus with peanuts, chile de arbol salsa and slices of avocado for a new take on the classic seafood taco. For the less adventurous, the Cook’s Ranch Pork Belly Carnitas does not disappoint. The meat is the star of the show, juicy and tender, complemented by salsa verde, guacamole and jalapeños.
Though the delicious food often steals the show, Petty Cash’s new Downtown location also has a revamped selection of signature cocktails. At Petty Cash, the bartenders are more than just bartenders, they are mixologists. The same level of passion is true of the servers who are knowledgeable and enthusiastic about every aspect of the menu. This appears to be a trend among the restaurants in Sprout LA’s collective. It makes a simple dinner feel like a true culinary experience, and it is now one that USC students have right in their backyard. The menu is admittedly pricey, but that should not discourage students from splurging for a date night or birthday dinner with friends. Be among the first to check out Downtown’s newest hidden gem because once word gets out, the wait for a table might be a while.
