L.A. Goes Down Under
If you’ve never been to Australia, the images conjured by the words “Australian food” are probably limited to two things: Foster’s Beer (Australian for “liquid regret”) and Vegemite (Australian for “disgusting”). What many don’t know is that another, significantly more enjoyable foodstuff enjoys a similar iconic ubiquity in the land down under: the savory meat pie.
Savory · Bronzed Aussies’ owner wants her meat pies part to become an Angeleno fast food staple, seeing as they are convenient for those on the go. – Euno Lee | Daily Trojan
Los Angeles transplant and Australian entrepreneur Samantha Bryan saw an opportunity to bring her native country’s beloved savory pies to Angelenos, so she enlisted the assistance of chef Lincoln Smith in creating Bronzed Aussie, a quick-service savory pie shop that opened earlier this month in Downtown L.A.’s Santee Court.
According to the restaurant’s website, the name “Bronzed Aussie” is inspired by the early volunteer “surf rescue” squads that patrolled the Australian coast. The name pays tribute to the lifeguards who spent their days out under the heat of the Australian sun and developed bronzed skin, hence the name “Bronzed Aussie.”
The pies served at this discreet boutique tucked into an alleyway off Los Angeles Street, however, are more golden brown. The hand-sized pockets carry traditional fillings, such as original ground beef, pepper steak and seafood, as well as some unorthodox offerings, including Thai chicken curry and vegetarian ratatouille, all of which are encased in a buttery, brilliant golden crust.
And the crust is a textural marvel — the top enclosure and edge is crunchy without being excessively flaky or greasy. Removing the pie from the tin will reveal a supple, yet surprisingly substantive pastry on the bottom that manages to hold the savory fillings without falling apart.
The fillings themselves largely fail to live up to their thoughtfully conceived vessels, though that is admittedly a tall order. In fact, pepper steak is a capable complement: Cubes of fork-tender beef, rich gravy and the crust combine to re-create the Australian comfort food.
Other iterations are less successful; The vegetarian ratatouille combines tomatoes, basil, eggplant, bell peppers, onions and zucchini, but it fails to play up the acidity of the tomatoes to flesh out the flavors of the other vegetables. Instead, the entire filling is completely drowned by the nutty crust.
A similar problem hampers the seafood pie’s flavors from truly taking shape — respectable chunks of fish, shrimp and potato are bathed in a white wine cream sauce with parsley and lemon, but the filling’s comforting richness begs for an acidic contrast against the buttery heft of crust.
If you manage to eat your way into a food coma, Bronzed Aussie also serves Australian roast espresso and other coffee drinks. The beans are provided by Longshot Coffee, the product of Bryan’s fellow Australian-turned-Angeleno Mark Baird.
According to Longshot Coffee’s website, the Australian roast provides a lighter profile than the espressos found in most American coffeeshops.
One of the most notable things about Bronzed Aussie is its convenience as a takeaway option for hungry folks on the go. The open-faced breakfast (or as the Aussies might call it, “brekkie”) pies, traditional savory pies and pastries are freshly baked in batches and ready for immediate take out.
Other menu items include spinach and feta rolls (a kind of Australian spanakopita), french fries and, for the truly homesick Australian, the ever-menacing Vegemite toast.
The location itself is rather hard to find for those who aren’t actively searching for it. This charming hole in the wall peeks out from an alleyway adjacent to the larger Santee Court’s main building. Though the scant indoor seating is limited to a bar against the window, the courtyard is outfitted with plenty of al fresco seating for those who have time to sit down and savor the pies.
Eating there is an especially good idea considering the staff is courteous and enthusiastic, and yes, one gentleman even has a rather strong (and charming) Australian accent.
Bronzed Aussie is certainly onto something: Fast, hearty and handheld are three welcome adjectives in a city that has one hand perpetually cuffed to a steering wheel. Australian transplants and Angelenos who’ve visited the land down under longing for a taste of Australia’s national food will enjoy Bronzed Aussie’s authenticity.
It also warrants a visit, for others if only for the reason that it will provide them an opportunity to taste a take on another culture’s fast food, of which Bronzed Aussie offers a presumed prototype.
Though the pies might not be for everyone, they’re certainly accessible to an American palate. And for those who have their doubts, at least you know going in that it couldn’t possibly be worse than Vegemite.