Día de los Muertos

When the ancient indigenous people of Mesoamerica disappeared, many of their old rituals and beliefs were gone forever. Perhaps it is not a coincidence, then, that one of the few surviving rituals is a celebration that honors and remembers the departed: El Dia de los Muertos, or The Day of the Dead.

A ceremony that has continued for hundreds of years, Dia de los Muertos is observed in countries around the world. In Los Angeles, the holiday is recognized on both large and small scales. Now in its 10th year, the annual celebration at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery, which took place on Saturday, remains one of the most extravagant, widely attended Dia de los Muertos events in the city.

Momentos · Observers of Dia de los Muertos craft altars with marigolds, sugar skulls and photos for loved ones. - Amaresh Sundaram Kuppuswamy | Daily Trojan

Event tickets cost $10, and a long line snaked along the lawn just outside the cemetery’s main gate before 4 p.m. By 9 p.m. the line stretched for several blocks along Santa Monica Boulevard. With Los Angeles’ large Latino population, it is not surprising that more than 20,000 attended the cemetery.

Only a handful of people were dressed in full Halloween costumes, but many wore elaborate skull face paint. Skeletons, called calacas, are a prominent symbol of the holiday.

“The calacas are about celebrating the dead — they are positive representations of it,” said Guillermo Reyes, an event contributor.

Upon entering the cemetery, guests were greeted by a ritual blessing and Oaxacan burial performed by men and women dressed in ancient Aztec attire, pounding drums and chanting much as it would have appeared hundreds of years ago. The dark lawn and countless tombstones certainly added to the authenticity of honoring the deceased.

Throughout the night, there was a variety of cultural art and music performances, but by far the most notable feature was the procession of more than 150 altars — a staple of the holiday. The altars, or ofrenas, present at the cemetery are “tributes to the dead,” according participant Bobbie Garcia.

“They are made of four tiers, symbols of water, earth, air and fire,” Garcia explained.

Pan de muerto, or bread of the dead, sugar skulls, photographs and alcohol are among the objects placed as ornaments on the altars, while orange marigold flowers and incense are commonly added because spirits are said to be attracted to their distinct scent.

Though most altars contained flowers, food and candles — which are considered standard decorations — there was an incredible amount of diversity in the size and design of the altars. Each altar was garnished with a blend of colors and frequently decked out with vibrant images or photos. One even contained In-n-Out bags because the deceased individual loved the restaurant.

“Traditionally, people begin decorating at noon or the night before,” Reyes said.

The Hollywood Forever Cemetery event was both a very personal and public display of paying respect to the dead. Some entrants used their altars as a message, such as commemorating the US troops who recently lost their lives overseas, whereas others used them to share stories about their family members.

“[It’s about] remembering what people did in their lives, not mourning their passing,” Bobbie said.

Each was unique, such as the “St. Patrick’s Day of the Dead” altar, which instantly stood out with its green Irish theme, electronic gadgets and voice recordings playing from a papier-mâché body set in an open coffin. Valeria Campbell, creator of the altar, explained it was meant to honor her father, Patrick Manahan, an accountant who loved to record whatever he said and was nicknamed “St. Patty” for being so religious.

Another altar, “Nuestra Señora de los Gatos: Patron Saint of All Abandoned, Relinquished, and Homeless Pets,” was decorated with cut out boards of pink cats. A señora skeleton in a purple dress is the mythical figure imagined by participant David Warner and his wife.

“It’s a tribute to lost pets displaced from disasters like [Hurricane] Katrina and the people taking time to help them,” Warner said.

Beyond the procession of altars were arts and crafts vendors, such as free face-painting booths and Braceland Bones, which sold skeleton-themed artwork and sketches. The Cathedral Mausoleum was filled with people admiring paintings and artwork along with orchestral background music.

One of the major highlights of the event was Latin Grammy award winner Lila Downs, singing at the Muerte Y Tradicion Stage, which was adorned with multicolored skulls.

The event has only expanded and encompassed more diversity throughout its 10 years.

“I’ve seen it grow over the years,” Reyes said. “There’s more cross-culture now to enrich the festival.”

For those who missed Saturday’s event, the Hollywood Forever Cemetery continues the celebration on Nov. 1 with a more intimate Dia de los Muertos night that will explore the holiday’s myths and history.